When the Thai Government opened their new Immigration Office
on Chang Wattana Road, life became an awful lot easier for me. Efficient, organised, air conditioned and just
a stone’s throw away from my apartment.
No more travelling across town to wait in a disorganised queue in order
to extend my tourist visa. Then, along came the Anti-Government protest and all
access to the new and improved Immigration Office was blocked. That for me was
a personal inconvenience, but rightly or wrongly, the protesters were seeking
to shape the democratic future of a nation, 65 million people, so I thought it
best to keep everything in perspective. So, once again, in order to remain in
Thailand, I first had to leave.
When I travel to Laos, I usually take the overnight bus from
Bangkok to Nong Khai - VIP Service, twelve hours onboard for around 650 Thai
Baht. However, perhaps as a result of the political crisis, Air Asia were
offering some amazing deals and if I could travel with just hand luggage, the
one hour flight would cost just 800 Thai Baht - $27. There was really no
contest, so I hopped onto a taxi-bike and headed to Don Meuang Airport for the
one hour flight north to Udon Thani.
(Laos Kip ... feeling rich)
After landing at Udon Thani, a minivan whisked me directly
to the border crossing – Thai Friendship Bridge - and an hour later I was
enjoying my first Beer Lao at the Chokdee Cafe overlooking the Mekong River in
Vientiane. The sun was shining, the beer was cold, and having changed $200 into
the local currency, I had 1,650,000 Lao Kip in my pocket. I really do enjoy
spending time in Vientiane before heading north into the country. For a capital
city, Vientiane has a homely village feel ling about it and relaxation comes
easy. It’s a city that’s changing, rapidly, with money flowing into infrastructure
projects, many that possibly threaten the atmosphere of the city, but I guess
that change is inevitable and I’ll enjoy the ambience while it lasts.
On previous visits to Laos, I’ve rented a scooter in
Vientiane and then headed north. However, if you wish to take your rented scooter
beyond the city limits then you’ll be charged double the daily rental price.
That price is still reasonable, but it’s much easier to take the bus to Vang
Vieng and rent a local scooter when you arrive.
Vang Vieng is 150km north of Vientiane, about four hours on
the bus and $2 in expense. Most tourists
seem to bypass Vang Vieng in favour of Luang Prabang a further 150km to the
north. That might not be good news for the local economy in Vang Vieng, but it
works for me. Rooms, food and beer are plentiful and cheap, and the views of
the phallic mountains are breathtaking.
(Early morning balloon over Vang Vieng)
(Amazing sunsets at Vang Vieng)
In order to explore independently, a scooter is really the
best option. Larger bikes are available, but to be honest, the Chinese copies
of the 110cc Honda Wave’s are all you’ll really need. They’re easy to ride, indestructible,
will go absolutely anywhere and cost around $4 per day. Mornings and evenings
are cooler, and probably the best time to explore. You could use a map, and
head for highlighted attractions – swimming holes, caves, mountain lookouts etc
– but I prefer to go freestyle. I just head off around the paddy, across the
rivers, and see where random tracks will take me. Whichever direction you take,
you’ll meet people, structures and geographical anomalies that constantly draw
you in and plant questions in your mind.
(Local kids doing what what local kids do)
(Random caves to explore, alone of with guides, according to your level of bravery)
All in all, I spent 10 relaxing days in Laos, mostly in and
around Vang Vieng. I ate well, stayed in decent rooms with en suite bathrooms,
rented scooters and drank beer to capacity. The VIP bus service back to
Vientiane wasn’t all that I’d hoped for, but as I’d spent less than $200 on the
entire holiday, I’m not going to complain.
(VIP Bus Service?)
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