Post 190: Niagara Falls, Canada

Good things come to those who wait, .... and if your going to wait anywhere then one of the worlds most famous natural wonders is certainly a good place to kill time. Again, .... it was a cloudless sky but a few degrees warmer than yesterday, the wind was wild and the spray was wetting the roads and pedestrians up to a quarter of a mile away from the Falls. I was looking towards the Rainbow Bridge when it appeared, ... in fact when 'they appeared'. Not one but two rainbows, ..... I didn't find a crock of gold and the photograph actually looks quite pathetic, .. but seeing it for myself has made Niagara Falls complete.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 189: Niagara Falls, Canada

'Welcome to Canada', ... It's Thursday 30th of October and it was one of the easiest and certainly the most picturesque border crossing of Poor Circulation so far, possibly the most beautiful border crossing that I've ever made. Just a few hundred yards downstream of the Falls, the 'Rainbow Bridge' crosses the Niagara River linking America and Canada. The sky was a perfect cloudless blue, the road was totally empty and the sheer size of this natural wonder becomes more apparent with every yard ridden. A choice of four customs kiosks .... no traffic at any of them. 'Are your carrying any firearms or other weapons?', .... 'No', .... 'Welcome to Canada, ... enjoy your stay'. It was that simple, a stamp in my passport and I'd entered Canada, the 28th Country on this journey.
I exchange US for Canadian Dollars, ... for the first time in six months I saw the Queen's face smiling up at me, a reminder that this journey was coming to an end. On the Canadian side of the Falls, crisp modern buildings point proudly towards the sky, the roads are clean and the buildings are all occupied. It's in stark contrast to the US side, .... it feels as if the Canadians are proud of their Falls whereas the Americans tuck theirs away behind a mass of urban decay, ... the Canadian side feels vibrant and fun while the US side feels neglected and unloved.
I rode around to the Falls and parked the bike. There were people around but not the crowds that would have been here during the summer months, .. but I prefer it that way. The 'Horseshoe Falls' on the Canadian side are more recognisable, ... it's the Canadian Falls that you'll have seen in photographs and on post cards, .... it's the Canadian Falls that the people come to visit, ... where the money is spent. You get closer to the water here, you can feel the force as it surges over the brow, .. the air is filled with the cold spray but I see none of the famous trademark rainbows. It's cold, the tour boats are already in dry-dock for the winter months, .. perhaps the 'Rainbows' are a summer phenomenon? As darkness arrives, special lighting colours the water bringing 'Oh's' and 'Ah's' from the shivering onlookers. OK, it's all a little bit 'Disney', .... but it's still something that everybody deserves to see.
Earlier in the day at a tourist information office I'd asked about camping, .... spreading laughter is something that I enjoy. They were understanding and helpful but it's clear that nobody in their right mond camps here in Autumn. It's a quiet time of year here and they arranged for a 'Late Arrival Tariff' at a small Motel on the edge of town. At the price quoted, I'd expected another hovel; my face and body are currently covered in huge red bug bites received at the budget motel on the US side of the Falls, but what I got here was far beyond my expectations. Secure parking, five minutes walk from the Falls, a clean room and a complimentary breakfast. I need to be in Toronto on Sunday, ...... but cities are beginning to scare me. I'm becoming paranoid about the security of the bike, perhaps wrongly, .... but I might just stay here for another night and do some writing before moving on, .... we'll see.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 188: Niagara Falls, New York State

Here in America, the first question that most people ask is; 'Did you ship your bike here from London, England?'. In Oregon and California they wanted to know about Europe, The Balkans and Russia, ... perhaps that was simply because I hadn't then seen anything of America. Through Central and Eastern America they seem to have little interest in anything other than the upper 48 States , .... it feels that in these parts, the rest of the world could just as easily be a distant planet from a different solar system. They tell me that the distance between New York and Seattle is huge, .... they can't seem to grasp that I've already come that way. As for traveling through Russia, ..... they just seem to skip through that part, probably wondering why anybody would ever want to do such a thing in the first place.

Staying in a Motel, I get to see some late night television, ... mostly watching the News Channels. Perhaps the rest of the world has suddenly become all loving and peaceful, ....... the time allocated to 'International News' here is basically Nil. I understand that it's election time and that takes up large segments of air time, .. I'm sure it would be the same in the UK, .... but surely something must be happening elsewhere in the world? If, and I fear that it might be true, the News Channels simply don't cover International News, .... then it becomes easier to understand how Sarah Palin gained all of her International knowledge by standing on the Alaskan shoreline with a pair of binoculars. This seeming lack of International awareness is at first quite becoming, ...... but then if you think about it, ..... it's also very bloody scary.

Anyway, with a slight rise in the outside temperature and a massive fall in my own, I ventured outside to take a look at Niagara Falls. There was still snow in the air, but it wasn't settling, .... the roads were dry and clear. At the bottom of Niagara Falls Boulevard, I turned left into the Falls car park, ..... if I'd turned right and ridden for another 300 yards, I would have arrived in Canada. It was quiet, it felt as if I had the Falls all to myself, .. but boy it was cold. The mist that looks so beautiful on film, ...... in these temperatures just freezes on your skin and burns like crazy. It's only when your walking away from the Falls that you notice the pain, .... while your watching you just look on in awe at the power and force of nature. It's stunning and beautiful, I would love to have seen it in summer, .... but then in summer I'd be fighting with a mass of other tourists, ... I'll settle for this Winter sunshine.

One thing that dose surprise me is just how many 'empty' buildings there are here on the US side. Niagara almost looks like a City in decline, .. perhaps the tourists come here to view the Falls but stay and spend their money elsewhere, .... possibly on the Canadian side. I'll take another look at the Falls from the Canadian side when I cross the border tomorrow. I understand that it's quite different, .... but I'll let you know in a couple of days.

Over the last couple of days readers have been donating to St Teresa's Hospice through my Just Giving page. The 'Top Box' is now full, ... so I've started adding the names of donors to the Panniers. Many thanks from myself and St Teresa's to those who've donated, .... many of you twice. It really is appreciated and is a constant reminder for me to stop cocking about and to just get on with it. I'm still short of my charity target but there's still plenty of room on the bike for more of your names, .... I'll make sure of that. Thank You, ... Geoff

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 187: Niagara, New York State

KOA campground 'closed', Budget Motel 'open' $32.99, .... no contest. The weather forecast promised a bright day, .... but what I got was 'mixed precipitates', ... that's American for sleet and rain. Perhaps it's a new form of Spin; avoid down words like rain, snow and recession, the people will believe you and everything will turn out well. What I can tell you is that 'mixed precipitates' are mighty cold and uncomfortable, .... in fact they're similar in every single way to good old English sleet.

I came along Interstate 90, I passed Syracuse which I'd always thought was in Canada, .... but it's actually in New York State, .... I'm learning every day. Like Siren's, the bathrooms at the rest areas were constantly calling me, my body had nothing left to give, ... yet still they called. I bought a pair of gloves with fingers, $1.99 when I bought $10 worth of fuel, .. they're not waterproof, they're made from canvas, ...... but they're better than nothing.

At one stop I lost my bike keys, 27,000 miles and in the last 100, .... I loose my keys. I search high and low, .. 90 minutes later they've turned up in McDonald's, ... but I haven't been to McDonald's? I'm getting attention on the road, attention similar to that received in Russia. Passing cars are 'honking' horns, passengers pointing camera phones and video camera's from side and rear windows, .... trucks are pulling alongside and driving parallel with me for miles on end. At every stop I'm repeating the story of Poor Circulation, .. people are giving me things to help along the way; a coffee thermos, a pocket guide to happiness, a spicey vegetable wrap and a small pumpkin, .. and that's just today. I'm not sure what to do with the pumpkin, but Halloween is an institution here. Away from the Interstate, every porch on every home is being prepared for October 31st, .. the pumpkin and ghoul displays are amazing, works of art that I fear if displayed back home in England, ..... would be instantly vandalised or stollen. I'll be here for Halloween, .... if the people go to this much trouble before the night, .. then I'm sure that the night itself will be something very special.

Tonight I've arrived in Niagara, on the US side of the falls. If yesterday I'd been asked on which river Niagara Falls stood, ... I would have guessed incorrectly, I honestly didn't know the answer. I crossed that river today, .. twice in fact, .. it's big, .... it's much wider than the Thames in central London, ... it's called the Niagara River, ... that's one hell of a coincidence.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 186: New York State

It all started so promisingly, ..... the rain had stopped at around 5am, the sky was now cloudless and blue, everything was surprisingly dry. I packed up and loaded the bike, all set for an early start, ... but sadly the new tyre decided otherwise.
Less than 200 miles on a brand new tyre, 200 out of 27,000 and I get my first road puncture of the journey. It wasn't the usual nail or screw, ... it was a huge throne that had penetrated deep into the centre line of the Metzeler. Fixing it wasn't a problem, 5 minutes and it was plugged with a 'sticky string', .. it was the inflation that taxed me. Somewhere along the road, ... or more likely in the sand and gravel tracks of California, the foot pump that I've carried from home has taken a beating. It's probably happened when I've dropped the bike, .... the actual foot lever has twisted through 90 degrees, .. it's now an ineffective 'hand pump'. At an inflation rate of around 1lb per minute, I gave up after half an hour and set out towards home.
Worried about what is known as the 'Great Lakes Effect', a meteorological phenomena that brings early season snow to the areas around Buffalo and Toronto, I wanted to make good progress while the weather was still in my favour. Just over 92 miles later, I turned the bike around. So used to following the compass East and with my mind on things other than navigation, I'd travelled almost a hundred miles in exactly the wrong direction. Well, ... at least it was sunny.
I stopped for lunch, ... not far from where I'd slept last night, ... hot soup and rolls. It was time to give myself a sever arse kicking. Instead of enjoying the last weeks of this journey I've spent too much time worrying about problems that don't yet exist, .. problems that I can solve when they do arise, .. problems that with a little forward planning, .... I can actually avoid in the first place. It's Sunday evening, ... I don't have to be at work on Monday morning, ... tomorrow is like the first day of a new holiday. I've got two weeks to ride up into Canada, catch a flight to Gatwick, ... ride to St Teresa's Hospice in Darlington and then back down to the Ace Cafe in London to complete the full circumnavigation. All things considered, ..... not a bad little vacation really.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 185: New York

I'd slept solidly for twelve hours, I woke up soaking wet but the high temperature of last night had thankfully gone. The motel bed was wet, .. and I mean really wet, .. I just hoped that housekeeping didn't think I'd been a naughty boy. Heavy rain was promised for the morning, ... followed by storms in the afternoon and then a clear day on Sunday.

I was quite close to the 'Hampton's', it would have been nice to see how the other half really lived, ... but I wanted to get to Triumph NYC on 6th Avenue as early as possible. I was starving, .. I stopped at a kosher deli and gorged myself on bread, soup and salads, ...... food has honestly never tasted so good.

I crossed the Manhattan Bridge and due more to good luck than good navigation, I found Triumph NYC at the first attempt. The tyre that I'd ordered hadn't arrived, .. but they had a 150/60/17 that would fit my bike. It was a 'Rennsport', a tyre more suited to track days than touring, I wont get 15,000 miles out of it, .... but needs must. Ordinarily, they don't provide a 'fitting service' on Saturdays, .... but today was different. With no access to the workshops, the Tiger was wheeled into the middle of the swish New York Showrooms where Randy dropped the wheel and fitted the new tyre, ..... $58. Many thanks to all at Triumph NYC for the amazing service and discount.

It's been a good day, .... the fever has gone and I'm feeling like a proper human being again. I caught the centre of the storms as I crossed from New Jersey into Pennsylvania, .... but the army surplus Gortex is still doing it's job. I've seldom ridden in such a combination of heavy rain and strong winds, .... but thankfully US roads drain quickly. The profile of the new tyre has lowered the gearing of the bike, it cruises 200rpm higher in top gear but it's hard to tell the difference, ... at least it's legal.

Riding in that rain was quite an adventure, ....the only downside to the day was that I lifted the bike onto it's centre stand for Randy to work on the rear tyre. Yes,...... the fever's gone, ... but the hernia is back and mighty angry.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 184: New York

I'd arranged to meet Gail Goodman at the Motorcycle Express offices out on Long Island, .... she was leaving at 11am, .. no problem, plenty of time, .... I thought. For the past week I've been feeling rough; headache, fever, constantly cold, ... probably a dose of 'Man Flu'. This morning, the symptoms changed, ..... lets call it a serious case of 'Food Poisoning', ... even though I've eatten nothing for two days. It took me almost two hours to load up the bike and move out. Progress was slow, I got onto the New Jersey Turnpike, .. I was stopping every twenty miles for a break.

I entered Manhattan through the Lincoln Tunnel, heading for 495 West, the Long Island Expressway, .. I missed it, I ended up in Brooklyn. Two hours late, two hours after Gail Goodman had been leaving the office and I'm following 'CJ' in his breakdown truck, ... he's waving from the window, my signal to turn right and head out onto Long Island. Three telephone calls using up the reminder of the credit on my mobile phone, .. and I eventually arrived at the Motorcycle Express offices. Gail had everything prepared for my arrival. Her colleague Maire took me through the relevant paperwork to fly the bike from Toronto to Gatwick, ..... it wa's getting late but everybody was understanding. I was supposed to be back in Manhattan to meet Tom and Lisa in Chelsea, .. there was no way that I'd make it and even if I did, ....... I was in no state to do anything or go anywhere. Motorcycle Express kindly invoke a 'Special Discount', .... the amount that I was due to pay was reduced. They pointed me in the direction of a local motel, .. the discount covered the cost.

It's only when your feeling this ill that the comforts of a bed, a heating system, ...... and a bathroom that's never more than 5 yards away are really appreciated. Tomorrow I've got to get to Triumph NYC, ... the rear tyre is now showing it's canvas undergarments and needs to be replaced before Canada, ... hopefully sleeping in a warm dry bed will sort me out.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 183: New Jersey

Today has been spent arranging my exit from the USA, .... it already feels as if I've come full circle. This picture was used on 'Post 1' of my Blog, .. it was probably my first real motorcycling holiday. August 1963, with my brother Alan and parents George and Barbara, we made the journey from Darlington to Folkstone on this Triumph 6TA, .... despite the photograph, I don't think I was actually allowed to do any of the riding back then.
I'd expected to leave from New York, but once again my immaculate planning has gone wildly astray. I can fly from New York, ... and so can the Triumph, .. but sadly not together. This time I'm obviously not worried about being separated from the 'Special Package', but I really want to avoid having to sit around in London kicking my heels whilst waiting for the bike to arrive. My best option now is to ride up to Toronto and fly together with the bike directly to London Gatwick. This afternoon, I telephoned Gail Goodman at Motorcycle Express based here in New York, .... I was holding my breath and waiting for the bad news to land. A huge sigh of relief, .... $1400 for the bike and $400 for me. There will be handling charges to pay in Gatwick and I've still got to absorb the cost of traveling into Canada, ..... but the saving over what I'd expected to pay, ... will more than cover all of that.
I'll actually be flying out on Wednesday November 5th and arriving in Gatwick at around 8am on Thursday 6th of November. I have to hand the bike over to customs in Canada on the Monday, ... so I've got a few days to kill here in New York before starting to head North, .. into the snow. I'm going onto Long Island tomorrow to finalise the paperwork and then to take the bike into Triumph NYC on 6th Avenue. Travelling into Canada means that I need to replace the rear tyre, .. it might pass muster here in the USA,.. but the Canadian authorities apparently have much sharper eyesight. I've arranged to stay for a few days in Chelsea with Tom and Lisa, close friends of my Brother. I've also had an offer from Bill, an early follower of Poor Circulation and contributor to St Teresa's Hospice, .... but even if I don't take up his kind offer of 'floor space', I'll hopefully meet him for a beer and a bite to eat.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 182: New York 100 Miles, Pennsylvania

It's the 23rd of October 2008, six months to the day since I left St Teresa's Hospice in Darlington. 26,000 miles, 180 days on the road, .... only 5 days of riding in the rain, ... most of which were in England. I'm within 100 miles of New York, I've ridden through 18 States, ... possibly even 19 and I'm now looking for my route home. I've written to British Airways and Virgin Atlantic, ... just to see if they would be willing to help. I'm waiting for a response from Virgin and although at first British Airways seemed keen to help, .... they can't do anything for me without a full months notice. There are several options open to me, but time wise I'd prefer to arrive back in Europe with the Tiger in close proximity. My US Visa expires on the 12th of November and over the next week it will probably begin snowing here, ..... I'd like to get moving as soon as possible.
I'll try to find somewhere cheap and warm to stay while I make my plans for departure. I really should have worked out my 'Exit' a few weeks ago, but every time I tried it simply reminded me that this journey was coming to an end, .... and that's not something that I want to happen. It feels as if I've come to the end of a long and amazing holiday from school, ... it's Sunday evening and 'Songs of Praise' is on television, ... instead of enjoying my final few days of the journey, ... I'm already struggling with the mental trauma of returning to reality.
Yesterday in a car park just North of Baltimore, I met Red's Horrocks and Don Curtis, ... two Harley Davidson riders. We chatted for several minutes, .. they pointed me in the direction of York where the Harley Davidson factory runs daily tours for visitors. I'd always thought that Harley's were only made in Milwaukee but apparently that's just the engines. I followed the road North, ..... I crossed the Mason Dixon Line, the line dividing the North and South of the lower 48 States, ... but there didn't seem to be anything there to see. Apparently a small group of historians are currently seeking to restore the stones that once marked this line, a line that is bathed in history, ... a line that has seemingly been forgotten, .. or ignored. Americans constantly tell me that as an Englishman I'm very lucky, 'we have great history', yes we do, .. but America has plenty of its own.
At the Harley factory, I was too late for the daily tour, .. I kept moving. It's getting cold, .. the wind is howling and the people that I meet all promise me snow. I landed in Lancaster, too weary and cold to consider camping, ... I checked into a roadside motel and soaked in the bath. Tomorrow I'll make arrangements for the journey to London, .... that will give me an indication of how long I have remaining in America. I will visit New York, .... but it's too expensive to stay there for any length of time. Hopefully, at the end of today my plans will be in place, my mind will be at ease and I'll possibly, ... head back West and tour the Harley Davidson factory. I don't think it will make me lust for a Harley, ..... but stranger things have happened.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 181: Culpeper, Virginia

I was lost, .... not dramatically so, I just knew that sometime this morning I'd missed a turning on my way towards Arlington. I was sticking to the back roads, .. enjoying the scenery, ... cruising gently and trying to stretch the remainder of the rubber on my rear tyre. I'm hoping to make it last until New York, .. probably another 500 road miles, ... I can't really afford to replace it until I get back to London. It should last, .... it's 'tread depth legality' depends very much on how you interpret the law, ... I just hope it stays dry.

I came around the corner and blinked, ... my mind had been wandering on these quiet roads, .... but suddenly I'd skipped countries. I was back in Thailand, .... either that or my dyslexia had suddenly deteriorated. The 'Sign' was written in Thai, ... I just knew that it said 'Temple', ... I didn't think it was a restaurant. I turned around and came back, .... the second sign was written in English, 'Wat Lao Buddha Avong'. I was intrigued, .... Virginia seems to represent the Christian heartland of America, a Buddhist Temple seemed totally out of place here.

Inside of the Temple it was quiet, aside from a couple of novice monks, I was the only visitor. I spent perhaps an hour there, .... inside of it's walls I could easily have been back in Asia, .. the outside world just ceases to exist in places like this. I sought 'Good Merit' for those that I care for and of course, .... the well being of the Tiger. I'm loosing count of how many times the bike has been 'Blessed' on this journey, ... but it seems to be working, ...... in a very nonsecular kind of way. Perhaps I should have asked the monks if they possessed a replacement set of valve seals or a Michelin Anakee tyre, ...... you never know your luck.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 180: Maggie Valley, North Carolina

A lifetime ago while I was paying for my fuel at a petrol station in Flagstaff Arizona, I was fortunate enough to bump into Dale Walksler. For several minutes we talked about Poor Circulation and then ate breakfast together at the side of his trailer. On the side of that trailer were the words: 'Wheels Through Time', .... and inside were eight Harley Davidson's of various vintages. Dale and a few of his colleagues were heading West to ride these classic bikes in Death valley, ... for them this was an annual event. I was invited to join them, ..... but I was heading East, .. short of time and money, ....sadly I had to decline their offer. As we parted, Dale handed me a card for the 'Wheels Through Time Museum' at Maggie Valley in North Carolina. I was heading in that direction, Maggie Valley was just East of Deal's Gap, .... I wasn't sure what to expect but I'd taken an instant liking to Dale, ..... I decided there and then that I'd go along and see what it was all about.
Let me tell you, .. Dale Walksler is the kind of man who hides his light under a bushel. Dale could have told me that he'd built the museum from scratch, .... buying and rebuilding his first Harley Davidson at the age of 15. He could have told me that it was the largest collection of classic Harley Davidson's in the world, ...... he could have told me many things about the Wheels Through Time Museum, .. but he didn't. Dale simply gave me the invitation and said that I might enjoy it. ('Google his name and then tell me that Dale Walksler isn't the kind of guy you'd want to go for a drink with).
As you enter any US State, .. or any US town, a tourist information centre points you in the direction of it's main attractions. Entering North Carolina and Maggie Valley, .. Wheels Through Time was not mentioned at all. I found it just off Main Street, .. exactly where Dale had left it. It was bigger than I'd imagined, ... the car park was full of bikes, .. small groups talked together outside, ... enthusing about what they had just seen. Inside the museum, .. it was like the Tardis, .. ten times larger on the inside than it looked from the exterior. This place is 'Amazing', .. I don't know where to start, ... I've been fortunate enough to visit many of the worlds great museum's, ..... but as a private motorcycle museum, ..... Wheels Through Time is in a league of it's own. More than 300 vehicles, mostly Harley Davidson's, are arranged in various states of repair, .. some standing alone, some in realistic settings, ... and every one is a gem. The best thing about this museum, .... is that the exhibits actually get used. I saw the pictures of the Death Valley ride, ... those vintage bikes were being raced both on and off road, climbing hills, fording rivers, .... Wheels Through Time is an interactive adventure. When Dale Walksler invited me to join him on the Death Valley ride,... why oh why did I not just say 'Yes' and join him? If your in the area, .... or even in the same hemisphere, then go and pay it a visit. You don't need to be into bikes or Harley Davidson's, ..... but it helps.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 179: Deal's Gap (Tail of The Dragon) North Carolina

It didn't rain, .. the world and his wife had descended onto the Dragon's Tail under clear blue skies, ... I wasn't alone out there. Firstly I must admit that although Deal's Gap was always on my list of 'must visit' areas, I had absolutely no idea just how beautiful, or busy, the Great Smokey Mountains would be. It's October and this is the 'peak season', .... and I can instantly see why. It's Autumn and the colours here are totally stunning, ... it feels as if the Hollywood special effects team have once again arrived before me. Back in England, for a biker Autumn leaves spell danger, ... here in North Carolina, .. they spell beauty. Perhaps it would be different in the rain, .... but thankfully for me it stayed dry.

'The best biking road in the world?' Well, ... it's good and it's beautiful, ... the ribbon of tarmac is smooth, the sight lines around the 318 turns are clear and the whole road flows perfectly. The only downsides are the amount of traffic and the number of police cars, .... but then I was there on a Saturday afternoon. I just sat back and enjoyed the ride, expecting faster bikes and cars to be closing in behind me, ..... but they didn't. The cars that I caught were kind enough to pull to the side of the road and allow me through, ...... a solid double line runs the length of the road but there were too many police cars in the area to overtake safely. For most of the day I seemed to be sitting behind small groups of cruisers, .. but that kept me safe, ... no new Tiger parts were added to the 'Tree of Shame'.

I enjoyed the roads around the Dragon, .. it would have been nice if it had been quieter .... it would have been nice to have been wearing legal tyres, ..... it's a great road, ..... it's certainly one of the best biking roads in the world. Perhaps it's not 'The Best', ... but it's definitely in the top ten and every biker should dream of riding here. Come in Autumn to enjoy the spectacular colours, .... but come early in the day to avoid the traffic, ... and the Police.

Along the Tail of The Dragon itself, a photographer snapped my picture. Darryl is from 'Killboy.com', ... he managed to capture my website address and has left a message on 'Post 178' below. The picture above is taken by Darryl Cannon and the website shows how better riders than me enjoy this amazing road. We didn't meet, .... Darryl nor his wife Lori know me, ... yet they've offered me room in their home and have donated to St Teresa's Hospice through my Just Giving page, ....... this journey never ceases to amaze me. ........ Thank You.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 178: Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

I've just heard that Alan's bike has arrived safely back in Braintree. It took a couple of weeks longer than he'd been promised,.. but at least he's riding again. He's ridden his Triumph Tiger around the world, 25,000 road miles without any serious mechanical problems. Alan's only concern was an oil leak from the top of the clutch mechanism, .... an oil seal costing 85p has failed. He's checked the bike into Essex's premier Triumph Dealership, Ongar Motorcycles, .... the same Dealership where he bought the bike brand new less than one year ago. The bike is still of course under manufacturers warranty, .. surely they'll fix this now famous Triumph and maintain the 100% reliability record?.... Surely they'll honour their own Triumph warranty? The answer is sadly NO. Because Alan didn't have his bike serviced at 'Accredited Triumph Dealerships', of which there are none in Turkey, Russia, South Korea etc., .... they're charging him for the work, .. full price, ... no discount, no apology, .. no discussion, ... the Triumph warranty is now 'Invalid'. It seems such a shame that Triumph and Ongar Motorcycles are taking this attitude, .. especially considering the support and help that's been given to us by total strangers along the way. To be honest, I'm not totally surprised at this outcome, .... I can't think of many positive experiences that I've ever had with Ongar Motorcycles. Here in America, where you can buy a new Triumph for less than half the retail price of the same bike at home in the UK, .. the dealers have been without exception, .... amazing. It will be a shame if the dealer who gladly accepted Alan's money for the bike in the first place, .. is the least willing to help, .... I'd actually be embarrassed to be riding a Tr***ph.

On a brighter note, I'm now in Pigeon Forge Tennessee, .. famous for being the home of Dollywood, ....which I wont visit, ..... and The Smokey Mountains, which I will. It's also the gateway to 'US 129', .. or 'Deal's Gap' or 'The Alcoa Highway', .... all names for a road that is perhaps better known to bikers and sports car enthusiasts as 'The Devils Tail'. It is without doubt the most famous biking road anywhere in the world. With 318 Turns along 11 Miles of tarmac, it's also one of the most dangerous, .. but I guess that all depends on how you approach it. Tomorrow when I ride it, my bike of choice would be a sports bike, but I don't have that choice, ... I'm on a 955i Tr***ph Tiger wearing canvas tyres and too many kilos of luggage, .... I'll grit my teeth and give it my best shot.

I'm heading towards the Wheels Through Time Transport Museum in Maggie Valley, .. I'd intended to arrive there today, Friday 17th October, ... but it's raining. It's not that I don't like riding in the rain, but the best way to approach Maggie Valley is on US129. I haven't come all of this way to ride the worlds best biking road in a monsoon. Tomorrow it will be dry,.. or perhaps the day after, .. I'll enjoy riding the road, ... I'll have fun but at safe speeds, ...... I don't intend to be contributing any Lucifer Orange Tiger parts to the 'Tree of Shame'...... it's already looks too well decorated.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Update: Several messages have been exchanged between supporters of Poor Circulation and Triumph, ..... Ongar Motorcycles are now going to 'Honour' Alan's warranty. Thanks to Mark and John and everybody else reading the Blog for your support and intervention with Triumph on Alan's behalf.

Post 177: Nashville, Tennessee

I'm still in Nashville Tennessee, .. I woke this morning feeling groggy, .... probably a result of last nights beer, I packed the bike and decided to lubricate the chain. That was a big mistake, .. six months on the road and I still haven't learned, ..... always put the bike onto its centre stand before you load the heavy luggage onto it. The hernia is now back, it looks as if it's about to give birth to twins, ... it feels as if it's about to give birth to triplets. It'll be alright tomorrow, I'll rest and use the downtime to take full advantage of the motel's bath and washing machine, .. which are actually the same receptacle, .. just not at the same time.

Last night, I watched the 3rd and final presidential debate on television. The debate itself was on the borderline of 'interesting', .. claim and counter-claim, accusation and denial, ... very little substance. Obama seemed polished, McCain seemed flustered, a fighter on the ropes, not quite 'Kennedy & Nixon 1960', .. but close enough in my eyes. The most interesting aspect was the post-debate news coverage. 'Fox News' had McCain winning the debate: 81% to 19%, ...... 'CNN' had the same results but with Obama taking the win, ...... were they really watching the same debate? I would have marked Obama as the winner, simply because he talked about the policies and didn't point the finger, .... but my opinion doesn't matter, I don't have a vote here.
Tomorrow I'll move on into South Carolina, the 'Wheels Through Time Museum' in Maggie Valley. I've been offered free accommodation in an 'Airstream', .. if you don't know what an 'Airstream' is,.. then check out Google Pictures. It sounds a little bit soft, but I've always wanted to live in one, ..... I thought they'd stopped making them back in the 1960's, ... they hadn't, you can buy one new today. Caravans may not be 'cool', .... but the 'Airstream' shatters that view, ..... I'm actually quite excited about it, ..... but please don't tell anybody.
www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 176: Nashville, Tennessee

I left Waverley early this morning, ... an hour earlier than I'd intended. Yesterday I'd mistakenly checked the time with a stranger, ... that stranger had been travelling West, I'm still on Central Time, .. I've retrieved my lost hour. On Interstate 40, I pull onto the emergency shoulder, I quickly climb off the bike and began removing my upper clothing. A Highway Patrol officer had pulled in behind me, .. he was out of the car but keeping a safe distance. He didn't look very impressed, perhaps it was my English body, .... I'm officially the skinniest person in Tennessee. I show him the white bumps with red centres that are rising all over my neck and back, I showed him the offending wasps that were still buzzing inside my discarded tee shirt, ... he still wasn't impressed. He reminds me that it's an offence to use the emergency shoulder, ..... he counts the stings on my back, seven, .... plus two on my neck, ... nine stings in total. His mood changes,.. he jokes that I've committed 'Code 586' and 'Code 647 violations, ... Illegal Parking and Lewd Behaviour respectively, .. he lets me off with a smile and a firm handshake. I've now enjoyed a total of eighteen wasp and bee stings on this journey, but this is the first time that the wasps have attacked as a pair. Prior to Poor Circulation, I'd only ever been stung once in my life, .. that had hurt an awful lot more, .... perhaps I'm developing immunity.

It's fair to say that I hadn't fallen in love with Memphis, .... but Nashville looks and feels very different. I wander around 'The District' exploring the stores, flicking through real vinyl records in proper laminated covers, .... music is playing everywhere. The streets and buildings have character, the area feels unspoiled, .. aside form a 'Hard Rock Cafe', there's no sign of any multi-nationals invading these historic streets. I'm hungry, I eat Mexican at 'Elrey', .. I meet Mike and small group of his friends, they buy the beer and I laugh at their jokes. Mike's a 'Xerox Engineer', he enjoys the work, he meets lots of girls, he likes to talk about that, .. loudly.. 'Nashville's a hot place for hot girls buddy, .. Boo Yah' . I smile, .. one day he'll visit Russia. We move on, 'The Stage', 'Baileys', 'Roberts' and 'Legends', all bars with live music. In legends we sit and talk with two girls who work for AT&T here in Nashville. Mike knows them,.. perhaps he services their copiers, .... he has eyes for the tall dark haired girl with a forgotten name, he wants to give her a 'hunka hunka burning love', ... Mike's not the shy type, .. he tells her, .. the girls drink-up and leave.

The singer's good, .. a gravel voice and amazing blues guitar. I'd prejudged country music; depressing, morose. I was wrong, .. it seldom touches on the happier aspects of life, but it's actually very deep and soulful, ... I'm tapping my feet. I wont rush out and start buying CD's, .... but next time I'm stealing free downloads, I might review my 'playlist'. Mike and his friends have to leave, .... it's almost 10pm. I've booked into a cheap motel, the bike is already parked halfway into the lobby, 24 hour security, ... a shower and then sleep, ... I'm no longer used to drinking.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 175: Waverley, Tennessee

Throughout the day I've been crossing the borders of Tennessee, Mississippi and Alabama, ... I think I'm now back in Tennessee. The last named town that I passed was Waverley, ... which I think is in Tennessee. Somewhere on the road today I've lost another hour, I'm not sure where or when but it means that I'm now on 'Eastern Time', ... at least I'm still heading in the right direction.

I like this area, away form the Cities, away from the Interstates, the people here are friendly and the way of life is relaxed and charming. The men all have short names; Ted, Jed, Buck, .. and the girls all have hyphens; Anna-May, Mary-Lou, Sally-Ann. The houses have porches, porches with rocking chairs, rocking chairs that are frequently used. As I ride past these homes the people wave; children, parents, grandparents, .. I always wave back. If I stop, I'm offered homemade lemonade and a seat on the porch, .. it's difficult to make progress but the hospitality here is so genuine that it's impossible to refuse. At petrol stations and cafes, people come over to ask questions, they pay for my gas, they buy me breakfast, they wish me well.

America is on the move, when I stop I'm also meeting people who are travelling, .... generally couples, people of all ages. North, South, East and West, people leaving their homes and returning to parents, returning to family, ... escaping their once dream homes before the embarrassment of foreclosure. Along the road in trailers behind their cars, these people tow everything that they own. At the side of the road, everything is for sale: Houses, Boats, Cars, ATV's, .... 'Yard Sales' are happening everywhere. In Washington, fingers are being pointed towards the fat-cats on Wall Street, ... on Wall Street they point their fingers elsewhere, ..... nobody points towards the individual who thought it was a good idea to raise a $300,000 mortgage on a $30,000 salary. Perhaps personal responsibility will only become an issue after the elections, ... perhaps at this moment in time it's not a 'vote winner'. American's are hurting and it's easy to feel their pain, but if I had any cash, ..... I'd be buying shares in 'U-Haul'.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 174: Graceland, Memphis, Tennessee

The history of Memphis Tennessee is interwoven with music: Soul, Rock n Roll, Jazz and of course, ..... Elvis. 'The King of Rock n Roll?', ... possibly true. He doesn't appear on my MP3 playlist, .... but there's no denying that Elvis Aaron Presley could certainly knock out a tune. That said, at $8 to park, and $62 for the full tour of Graceland, it was always going to be a few dollars too far for Poor Circulation. I settled for a home brewed coffee in the Heartbreak Hotel Car Park and a tour of the Graceland gift shop, ... both free.
Elvis was possibly the ultimate showman, possibly the inventor of 'Bling', .... but the Graceland gift shop is one of the strangest places that I've ever visited. In the interest of saving myself from a lynching, I should probably postpone publishing this until I've left Memphis, left Tennessee, .... left the USA. In all of my days I have never seen such an amazing assortment of tasteless junk assembled in one small space. If it wasn't for the adoring 'Super-Fans' who filled the store, .. fans who'd travelled across the State, across the Country or across the World just to visit Graceland, ... I'd swear that I was in some backstreet joke shop. I watch with clear amusement as they 'Ooou' and 'Arhhh' at the most ridiculous mementos on offer. I found it quite comical and hugely entertaining, .. but at the same time it was quite sad, .. I could clearly hear my daughter's voice, .... 'get a life'.
I spent an hour browsing the store, ... on every shelf I found something new that made me smile, that made me cringe, that made me reach for the vomit bucket, .... yours for only $29.99 plus tax. I'd refused to pay the excessive entrance fee to see Elvis's former home, it wasn't something that really interested me. Having seen the amount of money being spent in the gift shop, ... perhaps a tour of a 'Super-Fans Home' would have proved far more rewarding, .... and a whole lot cheaper.
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Post 173: Memphis, Tennessee

I accidentally found the midway point of Route 66: Los Angeles 1139 Miles, Chicago 1139 Miles. It wasn't signposted, ... it was just a simple sign opposite a diner at Adrian in Texas. I'd been travelling East along 'I40', .... I turned off and there it was. I stopped for lunch, took a few pictures and then continued East, .... for four more days.
I've passed through Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and I'm now in Tennessee. Four days of travelling, almost 2,000 miles including detours, .... and I can't think of anything to say. After almost six months of travelling, this has been the most baron four days of the journey, .... I've seen nothing of interest, .. I've done nothing of interest. I'm sorry, .... but that's just the way that it is. This evening, Sunday 12th October, I've arrived in Memphis, ..... surely something will happen here.
I've been squeezed East by the weather. Behind me is the leading edge of 'Norbert', a category 3 hurricane that's currently crossing Mexico and to the North is a line of snow that's moving towards the East Coast. Above me are clear skies, bright sunshine, ... but the cross-winds are amazingly strong. This makes the riding difficult, I'm constantly correcting the bike as the wind howls across this flat and featureless landscape, .. it's impossible to hide form it. I'm starting to have my first major concerns about the bike. In 2,000 miles, I've burned almost 2 litres of oil, ... in the previous 23,000 miles, .. it had burned almost none. The exhaust is definitely smoking when the bike is revved, .. hot or cold, ... the smoke is always present. I've still got full power throughout the range, but I'm short-shifting and cruising at around 65mph, .. just to be careful. I also need to change the rear tyre, probably the front too. The straight roads over the past few thousand miles have taken their toll on the centre-lines. I can't complain, ... I haven't liked the tyre combination since they were first fitted in Volgograd, .. 15,000 road miles ago, .... they've served their purpose. There's a Triumph Dealership here in Memphis, I'll call in tomorrow, .. I hope it's good news.
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Post 172: Route 66, New Mexico

"Questo treno ferma a Tucumcari?" I'm sorry to disappoint all of you 'Spaghetti Western' fans, but today I learned that it doesn't, ... in fact there appears to be no railway line anywhere near Tucumcari. Perhaps there once was, .... perhaps like a lot of this 'once was' small town in New Mexico, the railroad has closed, ... gone,... failed, .... filed 'Chapter 11', .... or perhaps it was a different town altogether. I'll make it my goal to discover the truth, if Lee Van Cleef really did alight here, ....if the railway did ever exist, .... I'll find it.

Last night I enjoyed a great meal with Jason, we ate Mexican. He uses his Triumph Tiger the way that it should be used, ... he travels. Jason's seen places that I'd love to visit, he mentions State Parks and Heritage Sites along my route, he talks of the 'Natural Splendor', ...... he adds to my list of choices. Jason has followed Poor Circulation from the start, if fact on the day of departure, Jason and his family had actually been on holiday in the UK. We talk for a couple of hours, Jason considers it 'Brave' to be travelling like this, he's not sure that he could do it, ..... but I beg to differ. In the middle of this changing economic and social climate, Jason and his wife are raising a son, paying a mortgage and changing jobs, .. that's the brave thing to do. By comparison, cocking around a bike for six months is a breeze. In the car park behind the restaurant, we take photographs. Jason says he wasn't sure that I'd want to meet him, he didn't think that a 'World Traveller' would want to meet a guy from New Mexico who just happened to ride the same model of bike. He couldn't have been more wrong, this journey is all about meeting people, none of us are so different, .... I'm just lucky enough to have the opportunity to do this, .... and this opportunity will never come again.

I left Albuquerque this morning, I was late, I'd forgotten to set the alarm for 5am, .... perhaps I just didn't hear it, ... perhaps the motel bed was just too comfortable. The result was that I overslept and missed the dawn Balloon Fiesta, a spectacle that once upon a time was the worlds most photographed event. I'm not sure how such statistics are compiled or verified, .. but I do know that I've seen pictures of it in the past. Instead, I headed East on Route 66 towards Amarillo in Texas. (Yes, .. that Amarillo, .... Yes, it is annoying and No, I can't stop singing it either). I'm in New Mexico, it's hot under the cloudless sky, .. for the first time in my life I'm riding without a helmet, .. I don't feel like a rebel, ... I just feel slightly unsafe.

I stopped at a small 'Diner' for breakfast. I drank my bottomless coffee and waited for the waitress to finish researching her discounted 'Medicare' options with the gentleman wearing the white stetson on table five. With her health insurance issues resolved and her tip safely pocketed, she eventually arrives at my table to take the order. I ask for the 'Cowboy Joe' with a side order of bacon, .... she shouts towards the kitchen. It's too late, breakfast finishes at 10:30am. I check my watch, .. I check the clock on the wall just to make sure that I haven't secretly passed into another time zone, .... I haven't, it's 10:32am. I'm refused 'Breakfast'. I begin to leave, ... I'm asked to pay for my coffee, .. I count to ten, .. and continue out of the door, ... nobody followed me.

Route 66 is not what it used to be, the traffic flows past on the Interstate, .. the businesses and residents along Route 66 receive only the noise and pollution, ... they miss out on the dollars. For a traveller it's very 'artistic' but for the traders along this road, it's a slow and painful financial death. Its a very long road, San Bernardino to Chicago and I've only seen a few hundred miles of it, but on the stretches that I've travelled, at least half of the diners, motels and stores are closed. Route 66 is something of a 'Ghost Road', ... but they tell me that things are improving. Perhaps the trends in tourism are cyclical and maybe the towns along Route 66 will once again flourish. I hope so, because with the exception of the odd waitress, Route 66 definitely has a soul.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 171: Albuquerque, New Mexico

I've arrived in Albuquerque and I'm hoping to meet with Jason Kottler, a supporter of Poor Circulation from the very beginning. Jason lives here, he's offered to buy me lunch, ... but lunch has turned into dinner. I'm travelling, .... Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner, it matters little. Jason rides a Triumph Tiger and had picked up the link to Poor Circulation through a US based Triumph Riders site on the web when we were back in Europe. It's great to actually meet the people who read this blog, ... so if you think your somewhere on my route, .. raise your hand and let me know.

It's the 'Balloon Festival' here in Albuquerque, the city is busy with tourists. I manage to find a motel room for the night, a motel that accepts the discount coupons that I found at the local gas station, a motel that is cheap.

It has WiFi, it has electricity, ... it has a shower with hot running water and large white towels that are possibly the softest that I've ever felt. As I sit typing this post, ... the bath is filled with dark blue water, ... beneath the scum on the surface are the remainder of my clothes. I have two of everything, socks, pants, tee shirts etc., ..... over the past few days I've become lazy, I've done no laundry. I have two hours before I'm due to meet Jason at 'Los Cuates' here in town, ... I have two hours to dry one full set of clothes. If anybody ever thought that travelling on a bike was somehow glamorous,.. then think again.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 170: Gallup, New Mexico

From Flagstaff I head East, back on Route 66. I pull to the side of the road and unhitch the primus stove, ... it's time for coffee. I stand watching the Santa Fe goods trains roll past, ... counting the wagons, all double deckers, .. I get bored and stop counting at 47, my mind is wandering aimlessly. In Russia the Trans Siberian Railway had been our shadow for over 3,000 miles, ... here on Route 66 it's the Santa Fe line. It's probably not quite as famous, not quite as long, ..... but it's a constant reminder that I'm heading the right direction.

I'm pulled back from my daydream by the sound of voices, English accents. I turn around to see a silver Jaguar XKR Convertible parked in the road. We talk for a minute or two, they're traveling along Route 66 from Chicago to San Bernardino. I learn that 60 members of the UK Jaguar Enthusiasts Club have shipped their cars here, .. the traffic builds behind the parked Jaguar, ... we move on in opposite directions.

For the rest of the day, I pick out vintage and modern Jaguars heading towards me, I flash my lights, I honk my horn and I wave. Of course, ... they have no idea who the guy on the bike is, no idea that the bike is British, but what the heck, ...... it relieves the boredom of this all too often straight and featureless part of the journey. In the past few weeks I've been totally spoiled with the beauty of America and at any other time, .... riding this road could feel like the ultimate biking experience. After Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Death Valley and Bryce, .... Route 66 is following the hardest acts you could ever imagine.

In Gallup, a long straight town of Motels and Gas Stations, I meet the rear-guard of the Jaguar group. I take pictures of a vintage model and talk briefly to it's owners, we wish each other safe journeys, .... we each have miles to cover, ..... I haven't seen another Jaguar since.

As I ride East out of Gallup, I pass the John McCain Election Bus, .. though I doubt very much that the man himself is on board. I'd heard on the news that he was making a speech in Santa Fe the following day, ...... the bus is heading in the wrong direction, ..... read into that what you will, .. but I'm siding with the Polar Bears.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 169: Falgstaff, Arizona

For the first time in seven weeks, .... it's raining. I haven't actually ridden in rain since entering Irkutsk way back in June, ... it feels strange, ... but it's not altogether unpleasant. I'm heading South towards Flagstaff on Highway 89, back into Arizona where I gain an extra hour, ... it's raining in Arizona too. The roads are slippery, a white foam covers the surface of the tarmac, detergents from spilled fuel, ... I'm cruising at between 75 and 80 mph, ... the Gortex is keeping me dry. The scenery that had been so inspiring on the journey North is now obscured by low clouds, .... the lack of entertainment allows me to concentrate on the road, .. I'm making good progress.

I stop for fuel and talk with two boys from the Navajo Nation, ... they ask about my travels, Poor Circulation?, .. we talk for several minutes. They ask me about the 'people', they ask me about the 'places', ... but they don't ask me about the things that have gone 'right' or gone 'wrong'. They have little interest in any hardships or difficult situations that I might have faced, they are only interested in what I have found and what I have learned. It is probably the most intelligent and rewarding conversations of this journey so far. Before I leave them, they look to the sky and grin, ... they tell me that it will snow in Flagstaff today. It's impossible to tell if they are serious, Arizona is not a place that I'd normally associate with snow,.. even in October. I consult my map, .. Flagstaff stands at around 8,000 feet above sea level, ..... Scafell Pike, the highest mountain in England stands at 3,200 feet, .. perhaps they are telling me the truth. What I do know is that last night the temperature had dropped to just above freezing, there was no frost, .... but it was mighty cold in my three seasons sleeping bag.

I arrived in Flagstaff and thankfully it wasn't snowing. As I search for and stumble upon the campground, the skies cleared, the hills came back into view and Route 66 was bathed in glorious sunshine. That is how Arizona should be, ..... I've seen it in the movies.

From Flagstaff I'm going to follow Route 66 down into New Mexico. Eventually I'll have to turn around and begin heading North, .... North towards New York and the prospect of autumn weather. I'm putting off that 'turn' for as long as possible, ... travelling has made me soft, .. the thought of riding in snow is not appealing, ... but the prospect of Poor Circulation moving closer to its end, ......... is even worse.

I'm missing my Daughter back in England, I'm missing my Brother and his family in California, .. but I wonder if I have anywhere that I can now honestly call 'home'. Physically, I don't have a house and the prospect of ever owning one in England is actually quite slim. It's difficult to imagine myself ever again living a normal life, .... I feel a deep urge to just keep on moving. This journey has changed me, I'm no longer scared of things that in the past would have terrified me, ...... maybe I've finally grown up, ..... maybe I'll find a way to keep on travelling.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 168: Bryce Canyon, Utah

I was still in awe of the Grand Canyon, ... it is one of the most spectacular places that I have ever seen. I'm riding with a smile, I've entered Utah State, .. the clocks have advanced by one hour but I'm not aware of it,... it's not something that's important to me. I stop at Lake Powell, It's early morning, it's quiet and peaceful, .. I want to spend time here, ... I want to spend time in every place that I see, ... but Bryce Canyon is waiting for me.

On the way East into Bryce Canon, the road takes me through Red Canyon, ... I have to stop. The rocks have turned a beautiful shade of 'Red', .. the rocks rise in columns towards the sky, ... these beautiful structures are like nothing that I've ever seen before. 'Red Canyon?' Before today I'd never heard of it, .... if this place were in England it would be the most popular tourist attraction imaginable. It's not in England,.. it's in America, ... here it's just another appetizer for the real attraction that is Bryce Canyon, 'Red Canyon' is simply the warm up act, a taste of what is yet to come.

In Vladivostok we'd met Phil and Dot, an English couple who told us that Bryce Canyon was the most amazing of all of the National Parks in America. My Brother Alan has visited this area, ... he said the same thing, he told me that Bryce Canyon could not be missed. Having just spent the day here; walking, riding and sitting ... I must agree with them. It's beyond my wildest expectations. Again, my photographs seem pathetic, they can never reflect the beauty of this area. I will return here, .. soon I hope. But I worry, .. I worry that in the past two weeks I've seen everything that America has to offer, .. perhaps the rest of this vast continent will seem dull by comparison. However, I suspect that America still has many more surprises in store for this lucky traveller.

Alan has arrived home in England, .. he's enjoyed America and has made his own way through. He's met family that he didn't know he had, made new friends on the road, seen and done amazing things. At home with his family,.. there will be a million questions, the confusion of where to begin,.. what to tell,... what to leave out. Explaining to others who haven't shared the journey is difficult,.. to understand the highs and lows, .... you really had to be there. It reminds me that my own time travelling is fast coming to an end, this journey will soon be over. Perhaps I have two more weeks, .. possibly three if I'm careful. I will never get the opportunity to do this again, ..... I will savour every moment, .... reality awaits me.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 167: Grand Canyon, Arizona

I'm sure that I can smell the 'wet paint', .. surely a team of Hollwood's finest set makers are running ahead of me, ...... painting the landscape before my arrival,... America just keeps getting better and better. Today I arrived at the Grand Canyon, ... it's overpowering, not just it's size, ... everything about it is both big and beautiful. I take a thousand photographs,... but not one of them captures what I saw, .. not one of them shows the scale or reflects the atmosphere of this amazing place. Mankind creates some wonderful things,.... but here in America, nature continues to exceed all of my expectations.

I've arrived at the South side, the road running to the East follows the top of the canyon offering spectacular views from 'pull-ins' at every turn. Here in America I've discovered the meaning of 'Relativity', .. or at least the 'Elasticity of Time and Distance'. Throughout Russia, I felt every mile that I travelled, .. forty miles took an hour, ... three hundred miles took a day. Here in America, the time and the miles pass in an instant. Every mile and every hour are filled with astonishing things to see and to do, .. time and distance have shrunk into small units of each day, ...... but sadly each day has too few 'Units'.

I spend the entire day sitting on various outcrops of rock looking down into the depths of the canyon below. I try to find places where the tourists don't go, .. inevitably these tends to be the places where they fear to tread. The bike is parked in official 'Car Parks', as I pull into them I try and walk away as quickly as possible. If I loiter, it's impossible to avoid conversation. These are conversations that I enjoy, conversations that give me the energy to keep moving each day, ... but conversations that eat time, .. time that I am now rapidly running short of.

I'm struck by the size and depth of this place, it is nothing like the photographs or video footage that I've seen before,.... it is 'Bigger', it is more 'Beautiful', .... it is an experience that I will never forget.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 166: Williams, Arizona

It's Thursday 2nd October, I'm halfway between Flagstaff and Williams, heading towards the Grand Canyon. I've got half a tank of fuel, ..... I decide to fill-up. I'm waiting for my change when Dale Walksler introduces himself, he buys me breakfast. We stand eating and drinking at the side of his truck, he slides open the door and I'm amazed at what I see. Inside the trck, sitting side by side, are eight vintage Harley's. Dale is the Curator of 'Wheels Through Time', a transport museum in Maggie Valley, North Carolina.

When I think of a 'Museum', I think of exhibits,... when I think of a 'Transport' or 'Motorcycle Museum', I think of beautiful bikes that deserve to be ridden, but instead are sitting dormant in an unfamiliar environment. Dale explains that 'Wheels Through Time' is different,... the eight vintage examples in his truck are on their way to Death Valley,.... on their way to be ridden and enjoyed by enthusiasts. As his team film an interview with me, I'm invited to join them on their journey, .... it's so so tempting. Eventually, and with mixed feelings, I decline. Dale hands me a free pass for the museum and the offer of staying overnight in an 'Airstream' when I get there. He offers to give me money,.. a little support for my suffering budget, .... I thank him but once again decline, instead, I point to the 'St Teresa's Hospice' sticker on the Tiger. Dale and his Team are one of the nicest groups of people that I've met on this journey. I haven't looked to see exactly where Maggie Valley is on the map,.. or if I'm being honest, where North Carolina is, .. but I will visit them, they are great people....... and I'll probably always regret not joining them for a couple of dats in Death Valley.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas

Post 165: Route 66, Arizona

'Now you go through St. Louie, .. Joplin, Missouri and Oklahoma City looks mighty pretty. You'll see Amarillo, .. Gallup New Mexico, Flagstaff Arizona, .. don't forget Winona, Kingman, .. Barstow, ... San Bernadino, ..... '

I was happy to leave Las Vegas, happy to be back on the road, happy that the sun was shining for the 70th successive day in America. I was heading towards The Grand Canyon, .. I was moving East again. I crossed the Hoover Dam at the head of Lake Mead, ... I was in Arizona, Highway 93 South to Kingman. I knew the name, 'Kingman', I struggled to think why. I tried to put the name into context, .. 'Kingman Arizona', .... why did I know that name?

45 miles further South and I saw the sign for 'Peach Springs', .... that was a town that I certainly didn't know, .... but the road listed beneath it I did, .... Route 66. I followed the historical road to Seligman and then on through Williams towards Flagstaff. The road is straight, .... actually quite ordinary, ... but the fact that you know your riding Route 66 makes it an amazingly special journey. For 20 miles the road runs alongside the railway, a 'Santa Fe' train with four engines and countless carriages was rolling along beside me. I 'waved',..... the train 'Hooted', .. I waved some more, he 'Hooted' back, ..... it might sound childish, but for 20 glorious minutes, I was having the absolute time of my life.

In all honesty, I'd expected to pick-up Route 66 in New Mexico, I'd forgotten about the song and the Cities that it mentions. It's a long way to Chicago, ..... but I know that my relationship with the 'Mother Road' will continue.

www.justgiving.com/geoffgthomas