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Post 287: Riding East .....

I’ve borrowed a bike. A ‘Yamaha Fresh II’, but it’s essentially a Honda C90 wearing a more fashionable frock. It’s got gears, four of them, all down. My toes well enough to handle them but it’s taking my brain sometime to get used to it. No room on the back for the box and it’s too heavy anyway. I’ll head East. I like East, it’s where the sun rises. Ubon Province is about as far East as you can go in Thailand before running out of country, and so for no better or worse reason than that ...... Ubon it is.

I hear the ‘Thud’ and feel a gentle shake of the Yamaha’s rear wheel. Too many years despatch riding, I know exactly what it is. A choice, stop or keep going? I pin the throttle wide open, which on this little thing makes very little difference. The speed increases but the bike is weaving like a pissed ferret. I crash up a gear, get the speed up to it’s maximum and hope that I paid attention in physics. The forces should keep the tyre inflated, I’ve tried it on the Bandit many times before and sometimes it actually works. Tyre walls on a Yamaha Fresh II are not as substantial as those on a Bandit, but at least I don’t crash ... mai pen rai The sleeping man in the hammock tells me one kilometre, possibly two. I figure on three at the very most and wobble my way eastwards to the promised puncture repair man. I know that a puncture repair kit isn’t going to work, the tube has exploded and I’ll need a replacement. Seven kilometres and the sign comes into view. A tractor tyre at the side of the road with the writing ’Yaang’. The tyre man is in the process of fixing a blown tyre on an oil tanker, so I smile and wait until he’s finished.
Ten minutes later, the Yamaha’s tyre is off revealing a huge tear in the inner tube. He strips it out, vanishes for a minute and then emerges from a dark cabinet with a perfectly sized new tube. Within ten minutes, I’m good to go again. “Tao rai?” (how much) …. “Bpaet sip’’ (eighty Baht, £1.60). I can hardly believe it, £1.60 for a new inner tube, fitted to the bike. I don’t ask for a discount, I just pay him 100 Baht and tell him to keep the change. I’ve just made his day. Nobody ever leaves a tip in rural Thailand, it’s just not the done thing … mai pen rai


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