Shot through a dusty lens on a Canon T3 Rebel in November 2017 ..... apply your own background music.
Post 416: Vang Vieng Skies - Dusty Lens Time Lapse {Posted 12th December 2017}
Shot through a dusty lens on a Canon T3 Rebel in November 2017 ..... apply your own background music.
Post 415: Summer Plans in California 2017 [Posted 19th April 2017]
Summer 2016 was woefully unproductive. My writing intentions
were good, but as a person who’s easily distracted, the US Presidential
Election, with all of its drama, captured far too much of my attention and time.
Needless to say, I achieved very little on the writing front and the first
edition of Poor Circulation1 ‘Ashes to Boonville’ remains my only book currently
available in print. Sorry about that, but things are about to change.
Thankfully, just like in SE Asia, California allows me to
survive on very little money, and although I’ve now reached an age where I can
begin drawing income from a couple of small pension plans, I’d prefer to delay
doing that for as long as possible.
So, over the course of the next few months, I’ll finish
editing ‘Homeward Bound’, ‘The Accidental Nomad’ and edition two of ‘Ashes to
Boonville’. Hopefully, these will be published in print and digital formats
well before Christmas.
Hopefully the General Election called by PM Theresa May for
June 8th, will prove to be slightly less distracting and I’ll try to
provide updates as I go.
Post 414: Songkran Festival Northern Bangkok - [Posted April 17th 2017]
This is the festival of Song Kran - traditional New Year in Thailand - as celebrated far away from the tourist centres of Bangkok.
The water washes away the sins of the previous year, and the white powder wards away malevolent spirits. Cleary, the local Bangkokians believed I needed ample of both…. Enjoy.
Post 413: Thai Market Food - Lak Si, Bangkok [Posted 25th December 2016]
A travel article on Bangkok that failed to lavish praise upon the city’s eclectic range of street-food, is difficult to imagine. But, in a drive to clear the congested sidewalks and streets on this desperately congested city, street-food has become a victim of of its own success.
According to the BBC, in 2016 alone, some 15,000 independent street-food vendors were evicted from their traditional sites, and in 2017, the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority's campaign to return the streets and sidewalks to vehicles and pedestrians, appears to be gathering pace.
Food writers and tourists love street-food for the overall dining experience, but hard-working cash-strapped Bangkokians love it mostly, for the reasonable price.
Removing 15,000 outlets from a supply chain can not be achieved without consequences, and as food writers go in search of alternative employment for their well-crafted cliches, many Bangkokians are filling-up in affordable meals from the plethora of always present, but often ignored, local food markets.
Here's a glimpse of what you might find if you wander away from the tourist hot spots ...
Post 412: Strange Conversations in Bangkok - Aftermath - [Posted 23rd December 2016]
Following my recent encounter at a Bangkok bar with ‘Prepper
Jim’ [Post 411], what, if anything, did my subsequent research reveal? Well, what
I really discovered was that science is an amazingly diverse field of study utilizing
knowledge based upon an overwhelming amount of mathematics and experimental
evidence. In stark contrast to science, I found the world of conspiracy
theories to be equally large, but it would appear, almost totally lacking in
all forms of evidence. I’m not saying that every conspiracy theory will turn
out to be false, or even that all science is fully proven, but I’d need to see
an awful lot of physical evidence before believing that Earth was actually flat,
or, that an ancient gateway in Antarctica allowed Aliens and the Rothschild family
to control the New World Order from deep inside our hollow planet. On the other
hand, police forces around the world becoming more militarized, mass worldwide
development of deep underground bunkers and the US Department of Homeland
Security’s recent order for
five-hundred-million rounds of hollow point ammunition, well, that all seems to
be true.
(Militarized Police at Standing Rock DAPL)
What I found was that science doesn’t change things, but it
certainly changes your view of things. Yesterday, standing on my balcony with
the day’s first coffee, the world had seemed totally still. Today it had felt
much the same, but today I’d understood exactly how unstill things had been. In
reality, I’d been rotating with the Earth at 1,040mph while Earth had been
revolving around the Sun at 66,000.00mph. At the same time, the Sun had been
spiralling through the Milky Way at 500,000mph while the Milky Way itself had
been charging across the Universe at an additional 1,300,000mph. Adding those
speeds together, whenever I’m standing perfectly still on my 10th floor balcony
drinking coffee, I’m actually moving in several conflicting directions at a
combined speed of 1,876,000mph, which by my rough calculation, is about 60mph
faster than if I’d been standing perfectly still on the pavement below.
Returning to Prepper Jim, he’d claimed that if I looked at
the scientific data I’d see several unprecedented things happening here on our planet.
Firstly, I’d see that Earth’s perpendicular tilt had already moved beyond
previously recorded norms and that the rotational variance, the wobble
experienced as Earth revolves around its polar axis, was erratically wandering
away from the traditional Poles. Secondly, that in the coming days I’d see a dramatic
increase in the frequency of earthquakes, of all magnitudes and along all tectonic
fault lines. These two provable happenings were, according to Jim, the result
of external gravitational forces acting upon Earth, energizing its molten core
which increases outward pressure on the crust, and at the same time, and in the
same way that the gravitational force of the Moon moves the oceans, that same external
gravitational force would be pulling Earth’s fragile crust towards it. The
source of this external gravitational force was, he’d claimed, the mysterious
and as yet unproven, Planet X.
2013 (Yellow) -2016 (Green) Planet Earth's Wandering Axis
For now, I’m going to leave the hypothetical “Planet X”, otherwise
known as “Nemesis”, “Nibiru”, “Wormwood”, “Black Star”, “Planet9”, or as
everybody’s favourite astrophysicist Professor Brian Cox calls it, “Planet
Bullshit”, and concentrate on the factual science behind Jim’s claims. Firstly,
has Earth’s axis moved away from the Poles, and is the Earth wobbling more than
usual as it rotates? Well, according to scientific measurement by United States Geographical Survey (USGS), the answer to both of those questions is
undeniably, Yes. The perpendicular axis of Earth changes throughout the year, predictably
tilting in a movement that gives us the four
seasons. The chart above shows exactly how far from perpendicular Earth has moved, with 2013 (Yellow), 2014 (Red), 2015 (Blue) until 26th July 2016 (Green) with the black arrows indicating the exact position on annual corresponding dates for the four years.
(USGS 24-Hour >2.4m Worldwide Earthquakes 21st December 2016 (Site Now CLOSED ))
However, since 2013 the actual degree of tilt has become increasingly pronounced and much more unpredictable. At the same time,
the rotational axis of Earth, the points through North and South Pole around
which the planet rotates, have been wandering erratically in ways that have
never before been recorded. Secondly, the frequency of earthquakes along all
fault lines, along with general global volcanic activity, has also visually and statistically increased. Although not mentioned by Jim, I also
began observing live seismology charts from USGS ANSS, graphs which constantly
record movements on hundreds of permanent seismic monitors located around the
world, and each day since our conversation, those readings have also become more and more erratic with Earth’s crust visibly vibrating, on a global scale. I’m certainly still not
ready to buy into the imminent arrival of “Planet Bullshit”, and I know that a
little knowledge can be a dangerous thing, but according to the data I’ve been
following, and the responses and questions from scientists, it appears that
beyond the consequences of climate change and fracking, some very strange
things are currently happening to Earth.
(Background normal Seismograph Readings. Front December 2016 Readings)
If strange things are happening to Earth, then the one thing
that has greater impact on our planet than human activity, is, solar activity.
The Sun evolves through a scientifically predictable 11-year cycle, during
which time its magnetic polarity reverses and in doing so, creates calculable Solar
Maximums (periods of peak solar activity) and Solar Minimums (periods of low
solar activity). The last magnetic pole reversal was completed in 2013, but the
solar activity from the new Solar Maximum; geomagnetic storms and coronal mass
ejections, was far lower than scientists had calculated. Some, but not all,
scientists hold the view that as we near the end of December 2016, the Sun’s
energy is still there, but it simply hasn’t been ejected,... Yet.
(Left 11-Year Solar Cycles - Right Sun's Coronal Hole 21st December 2016)
In October 2016, in a public address President Obama warned
of the impact that solar storms can have, saying: "Space weather has the potential to simultaneously affect and
disrupt health and safety across entire continents." (Shortly after Obama’s speech, Congress
voted-down the spending required to retroactively harden the USA’s electrical
infrastructure against the impact of future solar storms). Observing live footage of the Sun via the
NASA, ESA and US Space Observatory platforms, large coronal holes are clearly
visible on the surface of the Sun as it revolves to face Earth. Coronal Holes
on the surface of the Sun have a measurable correlation to earthquake magnitude
and frequency on Earth, and are known to prelude large solar storms, otherwise
known as Coronal Mass Ejections. Then, as if to confirm the coming storm, in a warning issued on December 21st
2016, the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) reported
their forecasts of sizeable solar storms directly impacting Earth within the
coming days.
[*NOTE: On 23rd December, NOAA released a new statement that
appeared to walk-back on the earlier warning: "What is correct is that G2 geomagnetic
storm levels were observed on December 21 and G1 geomagnetic storm levels
observed on December 22. The geomagnetic storm levels observed on December
21-22 are fairly typical levels at this time in the solar cycle and were the
result of Earth's interaction with a coronal hole high speed stream". At around the same time, the real-time Rapid
Earthquake Viewer provided by USGS announced, unexpectedly, that due to
building maintenance, their monitors would be down for the next few weeks].
(REV Active Monitoring CLOSED)
Although solar storms are frequent events, and are
responsible for what we call the Northern Lights, the last major damaging
impact on Earth came way back in 1859, an incident that became known as the
Carrington Event. Leading up to September 1st 1859, scientists had
observed an unusual number of larger than normal Coronal Holes on
the surface of the Sun as it had revolved to face Earth. Then, on September 1st,
a massive solar storm glanced Earth and took down electronic telegraph systems
across Europe and North America. The Carrington Event, which knocked out those
electronic telegraph systems across two continents, arrived twenty years before
electricity came to America’s first home. Back in 1859, beyond telegraph
systems there was little else electrical that could be damaged, but imagine, in
today’s electronically dependent society, the havoc that an equally powerful
solar storm could inflict on power grids and all things electrical, which is
today, practically everything that supports and controls society.
Having now spent ten days delving into this; so long because
the data is so comprehensive and constantly updating, I still believe that “Planet
X” is a rabbit hole down which "Prepper Jim" has unintentionally fallen. However, the scientific
community driven by data, and perhaps more worryingly, the insurance industry driven by the
possibilities of financial loss, believe that there is a high probability, not
necessarily in the coming days but certainly within our lifetimes, that Jim’s
preparations might not have been wasted.
*As a side note, perhaps, since 2012 US statistics on home insurance
show a ten-fold increase in former Police Officers, Submariners and
Coast Guards purchasing properties in the Missouri Ozarks, presumably, all are now
neighbours of “Prepper Jim”. Also, within the last five days, three of the
four longest standing and most subscribed You Tube Channels covering Space Weather and Planet X,
have been ‘Suspended’ due, apparently, to copyright infringement. Have I just
fallen down the same rabbit hole as Jim?
Post 411: Strange Conversations in Bangkok - [Posted 17th December 2016]
As conversations go, even by Bangkok’s eclectic standards, that
evening’s was certainly a strange one. Without invitation, Jim had introduced
himself as a former police officer from New York, three years retired and now
living in the Missouri Ozarks: “What
about Trump?”
I’d arranged to meet
friend and fellow motorcycle traveller Greg Frazier for our annual evening of
drinking and bullshit on Sukhumvit Road, but due to the unpredictability of
Bangkok’s transportation network, I’d arrived almost an hour earlier than
planned. Intent on conversation, Jim had
found me on a random barstool killing time with an over-priced beer and
desperately trying to avoid all forms of human contact. It’s not that I don’t
like people, or that I don’t appreciate the opportunity to speak unbroken English
once in a while, it’s just that I don’t particularly enjoy interacting with the
kind of people who tend to frequent the bars on Lower Sukhumvit Road, the
sin-centre of Bangkok.
Feigning deafness, I’d successfully dodged his political
opening question, which experience tells me is a reasonable tactic to employ
anywhere in the world, but avoidance of his follow-up would’ve appeared a
little too rude, even for somewhere like Sukhumvit Road: “So, what brings you here?” When I’d replied “I actually live here”, I’m sure he’d almost winked at me. But,
before I’d had time to qualify what ‘here’
had actually meant, he’d placed my second beer on his account and in doing so,
had successfully hijacked the next thirty minutes of my life.
The following morning, as the alcoholic haze had finally begun
to disperse, my mind had wandered back to that conversation with Jim. During
recent summers in California, I’d encountered several people with a similar
outlook on life to his; genuinely successful, sane and intelligent people who for
often undeclared reasons, believe that the total breakdown of civil society is
an imminent danger, and whilst leading seemingly normal lives, are discreetly preparing
themselves for any eventuality. I’d always referred to these people as ‘survivalists’,
but Jim had preferred the term ‘prepper’, describing himself as a person
prepared, both mentally and physically, for whatever event might lead to
geographical and social catastrophe on a global scale. In fact, Jim’s 10-day
vacation in Bangkok had, according to him, been part of his private
preparations, a final chance to flex certain muscles before, well, whatever lay
ahead for the world. As for the causation ‘event’ that Jim considered most
likely, it wasn’t the socio-economic meltdown and subsequent violent revolution
that I’d suggested, but a catastrophe caused by forces originating from far beyond
our own solar system…… “Oh, you mean aliens?” I’d asked.
Had Jim responded positively to my admittedly slightly
sarcastic question, I could’ve easily walked away without ever casting my mind
back to our conversation, but sadly, he hadn’t. Instead, he’d encouraged me to
do my own research, to investigate certain natural phenomena using scientific
data from such institutions as European Space Agency, United States Geographical
Survey and NASA. The fact that Jim hadn’t quoted extracts from Revelations had certainly increased his
credibility, but that, unfortunately, had made his departing advice slightly
more chilling than it ought to have been.
Apparently, from December 24th
to 27th 2016, I need to be well away from Bangkok, or any other
place in the world that isn’t located at least 1,000 feet above sea level and
ideally, as far away from tectonic fault lines as possible. In this part of
Asia finding such a location would be difficult, but a little research tells me
that a home in somewhere like the Missouri Ozarks, would be almost perfect.
Post 410: President Donald J. Trump - [Posted November 22nd 2016]
This blog’s been inactive for quite some time, but in my defense, I’ve
spent the last eighteen months following the pantomime that turned out to be,
the 2016 US Presidential Election.
Of course, we now know that baring unforeseen circumstances, on January 20th 2017, Donald J. Trump
will be sworn in as the 45th President, but for me, the biggest surprise of
the entire electoral process was that more people hadn’t seen that result coming.
For eighteen
long and arduous months the election bounced from one scandal to the next, both
real and invented, as the once impartial media shamelessly backed their chosen candidates
whilst shafting all other runners in the race. If I’d been asked to describe the
process, from distant beginning to recent conclusion, I’d have to say that the
entire election cycle became a metaphor for the rest of the world in 2016: “Totally
Fucked-up”.
Even now, many of those who didn’t support Trump are protesting the outcome and claiming that based
on ‘Popular Vote’, Hillary Clinton actually won the election. No matter how you feel about
the Electoral College or Donald J. Trump, and in my eyes there’s a special
place in Hell reserved for both of them, just to the right of the plot marked “Bill and Hillary Clinton”, making such claims after the event seems a little
churlish. (I don’t remember German fans disputing the outcome of the ’66 World Cup
Final because at the end of ninety minutes, instead of going directly to penalties, they'd played thirty more minutes of extra time during which time England scored two more goals).
So, despite my best attempts to avoid excessive vulgarity, I
think ‘Totally Fucked-Up’ is a fairly accurate description.
For the record, it should
come as no surprise to any of you that in the absence of a genuine left-of-centre candidate, I'd "Felt The Bern" and supported the Senator from Vermont. However, with the benefit of hindsight, knowing that Americans had been so determined to send democracy back to the Dark Ages, I don't know why they didn't deploy the nuclear option and simply write-in "King George III".
The irony of writing a critique of US Democracy from my desk here in Thailand hasn’t escaped my attention, and if Alanis Morissette is still
following this Blog then perhaps she’ll be in touch.….. don’t you think?
Post 409: US Presidential Election 2016 [Posted November 7th 2015]
Hold onto
your seats, because one year from today the United States of America will go to
the polls and elect their 45th President, and my prediction is that during
the next twelve months, things are going to get rather messy. Who eventually
wins the election on November 8th 2016 depends entirely upon which
candidate each of the two main political parties nominate – Democratic Party
and Republican Party – and just like with the British electoral system, it’s
not simply a question of which candidate receives the most votes on Election
Day.
In simple terms, on November 8th 2016 voters in each State will cast a ballot for their preferred candidate, and the candidate who receives the most votes will gain the support of that state’s “Electors”. At some time in December 2016, the 538 “Electors” who together form the “Electoral College”, will vote for their State’s candidate and the first candidate to receive 270 Electoral College Votes will become the 45th President of the United States of America. Simple?
In simple terms, on November 8th 2016 voters in each State will cast a ballot for their preferred candidate, and the candidate who receives the most votes will gain the support of that state’s “Electors”. At some time in December 2016, the 538 “Electors” who together form the “Electoral College”, will vote for their State’s candidate and the first candidate to receive 270 Electoral College Votes will become the 45th President of the United States of America. Simple?
The serious
candidates, as I see it, are Hillary Clinton and Bernie Sanders for the
Democratic Party, and for the Republican Party, which has a much deeper field,
I suspect that Ted Cruz, Marco Rubio and Donald Trump will be some way ahead of
the other runners. By the end of July 2016, through a process of Primary
Elections held in each State and Territory, each Party will have nominated a
candidate who’ll appear on the November 8th presidential ballot
papers.
Had I a
vote in this election, my choice would be Bernie Sanders, but I don’t have a
vote and I feel that in a close contest, Hillary Clinton will scrape through as
the Democratic Party’s nominee. For the Republican Party, I have a hunch that
it will come down to a tight and bitter battle between Ted Cruz and Donald
Trump and whichever one of them wins, in exchange for the transfer of voter
support at the Republican National Convention, they’ll select Marco Rubio to
run as their Vice President.
In this
election more than any other, choosing the eventual winner this early would be
a fool’s game, but here goes nothing:
Hillary Clinton
v Ted Cruz = President Hillary Clinton
Bernie Sanders
v Ted Cruz = President Bernie Sanders
Hillary
Clinton v Donald Trump = President Donald Trump
Bernie
Sanders v Donald Trump = President Bernie Sanders
Of course,
this is based on nothing more scientific than my own personal feelings and a
little research into each of the candidates and their assumed positions on future policy.
I see Ted Cruz as the least likable candidate, very closely followed by Hillary
Clinton. Donald Trump is as yet an unknown quantity, but as the maverick candidate, he must be taken seriously. And, as for Bernie Sanders, well, beyond those who appear to unquestioningly ‘love’ only
Trump, Cruz, Clinton or Wall Street, he appears to enjoy almost universal approval, and the value of a trustworthy politician in dangerous times such as these, ought not to be underestimated.
[EDIT: In the early hours of 9th November 2016, Hillary R. Clinton, who on the morning of the election had been given a 98.10% chance of winning the Electoral College by a landslide margin, conceded the election .... making Donald J. Trump, President-Elect of the United States of America.]
Post 408: Major Changes for ‘Tourists’ in Thailand - [Posted November 6th 2015]
For five glorious years, I’ve avoided the ravages of winter
by spending six months of the year in, and around, Thailand. By accident of
birth, a British Passport has allowed me to access reasonably priced
double-entry tourist visas with, thankfully, very few questions asked. However,
as of November 2015, the Thai visa system has changed.
Previously, I’d arrive in Thailand as a tourist under the 30
Day Visa Waiver Programme, a programme that remains unchanged. As that initial
30 days began to expire, I’d venture north into Laos, and at the Thai Embassy in
Vientiane, I’d apply for a double-entry 60 Day Tourist Visa. That particular
visa cost $60 and for a further $60 it could be extended for an additional 30
Days on two separate occasions. Under that system, with the exception of two
short trips to Laos or Cambodia, I could remain in Thailand for 210 Days.
However, as of November 2015, the double entry tourist visa
has been withdrawn. It has been replaced by a Multi-Entry 6 Month Tourist Visa,
which initially sounded like very good news indeed. However, in the words of
the original Night Owl ‘This is Thailand’,
a Kingdom where things are never quite as straight forward as they seem. To
obtain this new multiple-entry visa you must:
1: Apply in your home country
2: Provide six months of bank statements
with a balance that never for one day dips below
$6,000 (Some early applicants are
saying the minimum amount is actually $12,000)
3: Provide a letter from your
employer guaranteeing your continued and future employment.
Unfortunately, for me, I fail on all three of the new
criteria. So, when the 30 days on my initial visa waiver are about to expire, I’ll
head to Laos and apply for a 60 Day Single-Entry Tourist Visa at the Royal Thai
Embassy in Vientiane. Hopefully, I’ll be able to extend that 60 Day Visa for an
additional 30 Days at my local Immigration Office here in Bangkok. That should
allow me to remain in Thailand until February 2016, at which time I’ll have to
once again leave the country. Hopefully between now and then, the new system
will have settled into place and my options for extending my stay will have
become clearer.
Post 407: The Thai Festival of Song Kran 2558 - [Posted April 18th 2015]
Between 13th
& 16th of April, Thailand celebrates the arrival of New Year
with the festival of Song Kran. Every April, millions of tourists flock to Thailand
and join the now infamous water fights in the Silom and Khao San areas of
Bangkok. However, in the Bangkok district of Lak Si, the place I call "home", far away from
the commercial tourist traps of the city, in an area where tourists seldom
tread, this is how Thais really celebrate ….
Post 406: Supporting The Dhamanurak Foundation – [Posted April 14th 2015]
Our
association with the Dhamanurak Foundation began in 2013. That year, my partner
Nongnoo decided to celebrate her birthday with a party, but, it would be a
party with a difference. Instead of the
usual night of food, beer and birthday cake with a few close friends in Bangkok,
she’d decided to host a party for a large group of underprivileged kids in the Province
of Kanchanaburi.
Located
just a few miles from one of Thailand’s major tourist attractions, but
appearing nowhere on any map, the Dhamanurak Foundation is home, school and
medical centre for
approximately 120 kids. Ranging between 1 and 16 years of age, the kids are
either orphans, or from homes where for various reasons, their parents are simply
unable to care for them. Founded in 2001 by a Buddhist Nun named Jutiporn, who
continues to run the centre on a daily basis, the Foundation survives on voluntary contributions
from the public.
If anybody
following this would like to learn more, or to in some way help or become involved,
then please drop me an email: GMail
geoffgthomas
Post 405b: Why Don’t You Believe in God? – [Posted April 11th 2015]
If there’s
one lesson that travelling’s taught me, it’s never to offer my personal
opinions on partners, politics or religion, especially when drinking. So, when
the only other English speaker asked me why I didn’t believe in God, I’d fobbed
him off with a generic answer and quickly changed the subject. But, his
question had intrigued me.
For all of
my adult life I’ve consider myself an atheist, but, I’ve never really investigated
the root of my non-belief. My parents were certainly Christian, Methodists, and
at an early age I attended Sunday school, and perhaps, that’s where my journey
towards atheism really began.
Before I
could walk, I was christened, and as soon as I could talk I would kneel at the
side of my bed each night and recite this simple prayer: Gentle Jesus meek and mild, look upon this little child, pity my
simplicity, suffer me to come to thee. It’s safe to say that being
christened wasn’t a personal choice, and the words of that first prayer had actually
scared me. Why did I want ‘pity’, pity was for people who had worse lives than
me, and why would I ever want to ‘suffer’ for anything?
Throughout my
time at junior and secondary schools, I’d struggled with reading and writing -
later diagnosed as dyslexia - but I’d known that I wasn’t an idiot and actively
tried to prove that point by asking lots of relevant questions in class. In
general my questions were welcomed by the teachers, but at Sunday school, well,
the ministers weren’t quite so accommodating.
At school,
my physics teacher had told me that the universe was almost fifteen billion
years old and measurably expanding, and that planet earth had been around for
at least four billion years. As I’d questioned his reasoning, he’d pointed me
towards an entire section of scientific research material in the school library
and encouraged me to investigate the evidence and to draw my own conclusions. In
social studies, they’d introduced me to Darwin’s On the Origin of Species and shown that recognisable
humans had inhabited the earth, specifically Africa, for at least 200,000
years. If I wanted further evidence of evolution, I should visit the Natural
History Museum in London and evaluate the evidence for myself. So, at the age
of twelve, we spent our summer vacation traipsing around London on an amazing
voyage of discovery: The Science Museum, The Natural History Museum, The
British Museum and the Planetarium.
For my inquiring young mind, the school teachers’ responses to
my questions were appropriate, but in church my questions had seemed neither
reasonable, nor in most cases, answerable. I’d been told that God created the
earth, and that five days later he created Adam before taking a day of rest. But,
if Adam came two thousand years before Abraham, and Abraham lived two thousand
years before Jesus, wouldn’t that make the earth, and therefore mankind, at the
very most six thousand years old? When I’d innocently questioned the Sunday
schools teachers’ timeline, they hadn’t pointed me towards scientific papers,
to independent research or to physical evidence in various museums, they’d simply
pointed me to their book, the Holy Bible.
The Bible wasn’t an easy read, but I’d struggled through a
few random chapters and what I’d found had disturbed me far more than that
early childhood prayer. At the time, many of the words had been beyond my
comprehension, like ‘Apostasy’, but being told by a loving omnipotent God that
if members of my own family ever cease believing in him, I should stone them to
death, had seemed more than a little harsh. When it comes to wavering belief in
God, I also discovered that the name Thomas had history, and I’d decided that
it was time to stop asking questions, and, to stop attending a church that actively discouraged scrutiny.
Post 405a: Je Susi Charlie [Posted 8th January 2014]
As you’re no doubt aware, on Wednesday 7th of January at the
Paris offices of satirical magazine Charlie
Hebdo, masked gunmen slaughtered ten members of the editorial team and two
French police officers. The reason for this barbaric attack, it would seem, was
a reaction to the publication, on several occasions, of cartoons depicting the
Prophet Muhammad. On a personal note, I didn’t find the Charlie Hebdo cartoons
to be particularly amusing, or informative, but any verbal assault on humour,
politics or religious beliefs should surely lead to dialogue, not death. Sadly,
this isn’t the first such deadly response to criticism, satirical or otherwise,
of Islam and its envoy on earth, and I’m not referring to the previously
published Danish cartoons or even Salman Rushdie’s book, The Satanic Verses.
For the first example of such a violent response to
criticism of the Prophet, we must travel back to 7th century Mecca, the birthplace of
Muhammad. Asma bint Marwan – daughter of Marwan – was a local poet who openly
mocked Muhammad’s claim to be the Slave
of Allah, Allah being the Arabic word for God. Vexed by the content of her
verse, Muhammad had asked “Who will rid
me of Marwan’s daughter?” That evening, one of Muhammad’s followers
murdered Asma while she slept, and upon hearing the news Muhammad exclaimed “you have helped both God and His
messenger”. If Islam is a religion of peace, then as with most other
religions, it didn't get off to a very good start.
So, is it right that we, society, should be openly critical of religion?
Many believers will say 'No', especially I suspect when it relates to their
own chosen belief system, but on any logical basis, the answer must surely be 'Yes'. Religions, both monotheistic and polytheistic, are by their very
nature expansionist, and in this respect Islam seems more determined than most.
Religions are like political movements, without national borders, and their
manifestos are their sacred books; Bible, Quran, Torah. As Islam’s ultimate and
undisguised goal is to attract the remaining five-billion of the world’s
non-believers to its fold, by all means necessary, then society has a moral
obligation to review, dissect, question, and where necessary, even openly mock
its policies and actions.
But, the free thinking world has
become an amazingly sensitive beast, especially when it comes to discussing
Islam. It’s a beast burdened by the weight of political correctness, and for
this deafening silence in the face of mounting sickness, we must all accept a
degree of personal responsibility. Since the birth of electronic media, the
rise of Islamic violence has monopolised the limelight, but, although Islam has
stolen the headlines, none of the faith based movements have been totally free
from sin. Charlie Hebdo might not be funny, in my eyes at least, but at least
they don’t discriminate. When it comes to being critical of faith, Charlie
Hebdo are certainly advocates for equality.
No faith escaped the cartoonist’s pen, but only one movement reacted against them with violent and deadly force. Of course, the artists knew that their cartoons would be controversial, and that was precisely their point, they were a catalyst to conversation, debate and hopefully, enlightenment. They were fully aware of the risks to themselves, but they didn’t fear the wrath of Allah, to them Allah was as real as a Unicorn, what they feared, justifiably, was the reaction of individuals who’d been poisoned by his brutal manifesto.
No faith escaped the cartoonist’s pen, but only one movement reacted against them with violent and deadly force. Of course, the artists knew that their cartoons would be controversial, and that was precisely their point, they were a catalyst to conversation, debate and hopefully, enlightenment. They were fully aware of the risks to themselves, but they didn’t fear the wrath of Allah, to them Allah was as real as a Unicorn, what they feared, justifiably, was the reaction of individuals who’d been poisoned by his brutal manifesto.
Some will take exception
to my choice of words, brutal manifesto,
but as with the books of other religions, many of which are reflected in the
Quran, the suras of the Quran and Hadith are no strangers to the glorification
of violence. 'If they turn their backs, [on Islam] take them, and slay them
wherever you find them'.
The editorial staff
and cartoonists of Charlie Hebdo paid the ultimate price for fulfilling their
obligation to the world. But, hopefully, from their martyrdom will rise a
movement, a new generation of critical thinkers who will detect the true scent
of religion and identify it for exactly what it is.
Post 404: Why Thailand? My Thailand - [Posted 7th January 2015]
When strangers ask “where
do you live?”, and I reply “Thailand”,
their reactions are often quite predictable. Most are too polite to tell me what they’re
actually thinking, but their knowing smiles are the perfect windows to their
thoughts - A rustic home on the beach, evenings on a bar stool, cold beer in
hand and bikini clad maidens tending to his every desire ... The lucky bastard!
The paradise beaches of Koh Phi Phi
I can understand why they think that, just as I can
understand why many Thais, and probably quite a few Americans, firmly believe that every Englishman lives in Downton
Abbey, but the truth, for me at least, is far removed from their perception. 2014
was probably an average year for me, and I spent just five evenings attached to
various bar stools across Thailand. Three of those evenings were at a
travellers meeting in Chiang Mai where I was speaking, and the other two were in
Bangkok with a good friend; writer and adventurer, Dr Greg Frazier. In each of
those bars I was seen, and probably photographed, with a cold beer in my hand, but
to the best of my knowledge there were no bikini clad maidens tending to
my every desire or anything else for that matter. Sure, I do have a Thai girlfriend, but if I ever asked her to tend to
even the mildest of my actual desires, well, I’d become a eunuch and she’d be out of
my life in a flash. As for living close to a beach, well, I’m at
least 200 miles from any beach that any sane person would ever want to
visit. I live in Bangkok, a little area called Lak Si. Ever heard of it? No,
nor had I until I moved here four years ago. It’s certainly not a slum, but
neither is it gentrified, but at £70 per month the rent on my studio apartment is
slightly more attractive than the view from the balcony.
The early morning haze of Lak Si
So, if I’m not here for the beaches, the booze or the
bikini clad beauties, then what the hell am I doing in Thailand? Well, it basically comes
down to a combination of economics and laziness, something that I’ll try to
explain.
After riding around the world, settling back into my normal
life was impossible. That's not just because my house had burned down while I'd been crossing Siberia, but because a year without working had become an impossible habit to break. What I really wanted was a gentle middle-class lifestyle,
the UK definition of middle-class not the lower income American version, and I figured that the
annual income of a teacher would be a really good starting point. In England,
that would mean earning around £40,000 per year, which sounded like an awful
lot of Monday morning feelings and a decent amount of hard work, but in places such as Thailand, a local teacher earns around
£5,000 per year. I guessed that with my messy writing, and with a few
additional irons in the financial fire, I could earn £5,000 a year without
having to sacrifice too many hours of idleness. So, if I could do that while living in Thailand, and Thailand would allow me to stay there, then I’d be laughing.
The economics of teachers
Of course, I could have easily chosen Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos or
even somewhere in Africa, but I didn’t. I already spoke a little Thai and,
well, in the interest of full disclosure, I already had a few female friends
here in the Land of Smiles. [Don’t shoot me, I’m only human and I thought you might appreciate the honesty]
POST 403: I’m hearing only bad news, on Radio .... [Posted 31st December 2014]
As 2014 draws to a close, unless you’re a purveyor of bullets, surgical masks or radical religion, then it’s safe to say that it's been a big year for bad news. I’m sure there’s been some good news scattered around somewhere, but in the main, 2014 has been a horrible year for humanity.
In Asia and the Middle East, aircraft mysteriously vanished or fell from the skies as Islamic State, Al Nusra Front, Taliban and Boko Haram all rose to new heights of depravity. Taking advantage of the media dead-zone created by the world’s concentration on atrocities carried out in the name of some twisted god of peace, Bashar Al-Assad continued to murder thousands of his own people in Syria while Israel decided to flatten any areas of Gaza that hadn’t already succumbed to their previous bombardments.
In Europe, political unrest in Ukraine was swiftly followed by the takeover of Crimea and Eastern Ukraine by Russian backed separatists. Despite Vladimir Putin’s claim that it wasn’t a Russian bear shitting in the woods of Donetsk and Luhansk, the outside world disagreed, economic sanctions were imposed and the Russian Ruble collapsed in spectacular fashion.
Meanwhile, in Liberia, Sierra Leone, Mali, Nigeria and Guinea, the Ebola virus killed almost eight-thousand people, but when one poor individual died in America, it suddenly became Obama’s fault. T-Shirts with the slogan ‘EBOLA - Obama’s Gift to America‘ sold almost as quickly as Assault Rifles and in 2014, sixteen thousand more Americans lost their lives in home-grown gun related crimes.
Closer to home, my home, 2014 was certainly an interesting year for Thailand. 2013 had ended with the government in limbo and the country at risk of being physically divided into North and South. Civil War was calling and action had to be taken, so Thailand fell back on its own illustrious history and the Generals seized power in the countries 17th Military Coup. Sadly, that wasn’t the end of Thailand’s political shenanigans, simply the beginning ….
In Asia and the Middle East, aircraft mysteriously vanished or fell from the skies as Islamic State, Al Nusra Front, Taliban and Boko Haram all rose to new heights of depravity. Taking advantage of the media dead-zone created by the world’s concentration on atrocities carried out in the name of some twisted god of peace, Bashar Al-Assad continued to murder thousands of his own people in Syria while Israel decided to flatten any areas of Gaza that hadn’t already succumbed to their previous bombardments.
In Europe, political unrest in Ukraine was swiftly followed by the takeover of Crimea and Eastern Ukraine by Russian backed separatists. Despite Vladimir Putin’s claim that it wasn’t a Russian bear shitting in the woods of Donetsk and Luhansk, the outside world disagreed, economic sanctions were imposed and the Russian Ruble collapsed in spectacular fashion.
Meanwhile, in Liberia, Sierra Leone, Mali, Nigeria and Guinea, the Ebola virus killed almost eight-thousand people, but when one poor individual died in America, it suddenly became Obama’s fault. T-Shirts with the slogan ‘EBOLA - Obama’s Gift to America‘ sold almost as quickly as Assault Rifles and in 2014, sixteen thousand more Americans lost their lives in home-grown gun related crimes.
Closer to home, my home, 2014 was certainly an interesting year for Thailand. 2013 had ended with the government in limbo and the country at risk of being physically divided into North and South. Civil War was calling and action had to be taken, so Thailand fell back on its own illustrious history and the Generals seized power in the countries 17th Military Coup. Sadly, that wasn’t the end of Thailand’s political shenanigans, simply the beginning ….
Post 403: Part 3: A Beginner’s Guide to Thailand: 5 Must Do Things in Bangkok
So, you’ve arrived safely in Bangkok, checked into your hotel and discovered the best ways of getting around this amazing city. The next question is: Where to go first? Well, I’ve lived here for quite some time and over the years I’ve visited most of the places that any tourist would ever want to see. Some of those places deliver a better experience than others, but if you’re only here for a few short days, then none of them will disappoint you. Here, I’ll scroll through what I feel are the absolute ’Must See’ attractions of the city, the venues that are guaranteed to leave a lasting and favourable impression. If however, you’re looking for more detail, then send me an email and I’ll help where I can.
1: The Grand Palace
In the Phra Nakhon District of Bangkok, a gentle walk from Khao San Road, you’ll find Bangkok’s most famous landmark: The Grand Palace. It’ll be clearly marked on your map, right at the edge of the Chao Phraya River, and any taxi driver will know how to get you there. However, what most people think of as the Grand Palace, is actually Wat Phra Kaew, or The Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Palace, and the Wat (Temple) are located in the same complex and the entry ticket, 500 Baht for foreigners and Free for Thais, gives access to both areas.
Despite what the loitering Tuk-Tuk Drivers and Tourist Guides tell you, this complex is never closed to the public. It is open daily, but on normal days the latest time for entry is around 3pm in the afternoon. It is a Temple, so you’ll need to dress appropriately. The general rule is no bare shoulders and legs fully covered down to the ankles. But, if you’ve arrived wearing shorts, don’t worry because just inside the main gates they’ll happily provide you with a sarong, or a pair of long pants, for a reasonable fee. It’s a huge complex with much to see, so allow yourself a few hours to enjoy this place. It will be busy, but take your time to enjoy it. Don’t be afraid to enter the Temple, after removing your shoes of course, and the locals will be happy to guide you in the lighting of candles, the burning of incense sticks and the placement of ceremonial flowers. The entry price includes a small guidebook that will explain the basics of what you need to know about each room and structure, and small information plaques will fill in the blanks. If only have time to visit one site in Bangkok, then this is the one to head for.
2: Wat Saket
A fifteen minute walk from The Grand Palace and Khao San Road, Wat Saket is better known to tourists as Golden Mount. Just look upwards and you’ll see a huge hill crowned by a golden chedi, that‘s the top of Golden Mount. The hill isn’t a natural feature, it’s made entirely by man, but the guidebooks will give you all of the history you’ll need. Once again, it’s a temple, so you’ll need to dress appropriately. Grab a bottle of cold water, climb the steps towards the summit, ring the multitude of bells as you go and feel free to chat with any monks that you meet. I love this place, it’s always a lot quieter than Wat Phra Kaew, the views from the summit are stunning and the monks are some of the friendliest that you’ll ever meet. Don’t be afraid of them, they genuinely appreciate your interest and the opportunity to practice their English.
At the base of the golden chedi, the tall round pillar that is said to contain a relic of Lord Buddha, feel free to kneel down and pray. It really doesn’t matter what religion you follow, or if like me you have no religion at all, it’s just something that you’ve probably never done before, but something that might stay with you forever. Many tourists are nervous, but providing you’re respectful of your surroundings, people will be on hand to guide you.
3: Chat u Chak Weekend Market
If you’re in Bangkok on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, then a trip to Chat u Chak Weekend Market is an absolute must. Chat u Chak is often spelled Jat u JaK, even on the official signs, but that’s just the start of the confusion. This is the worlds largest permanent market and as such, should be highly placed on everyone’s bucket list. A few short years ago, you’d come to Chat u Chak Market and Thai’s would outnumber Westerners 100 to 1, but Chat u Chak is now firmly on the tourist-trail and the numbers have certainly evened out. As a result, the authorities have cleaned the place up, the fake Rolex watches and caged animals have gone and the experience is all the better for it.
To get there, you simply take the BTS to Mo Chit Station and then follow the flow of people across the walkway and down the stairs. It’s hot, it’s crowded and it’s amazingly random, but it’s an experience that no tourist should miss.
The market is divided into two main sections, the inner and outer triangles on the map. These triangles are separated by an open Walking Street: Kamphaengphet Road. Start by walking left or right, it really doesn’t matter which direction you choose, and just keep on browsing until you return to your original starting point. Along the way you’ll find kiosks selling everything that anybody could ever possibly need, and all at reasonable prices. Along this walking street you’ll also find the food vendors and beer bars. Street food of every variety is cooked to order in front of you and if you need to rest your weary feet before attacking the inner triangle, then grab a stool and a cold beer or soda at any of the busy bars.
The inner triangle is a warren of tight alleys, hot sweaty and crowded. At busy times, which is just about anytime, the masses of people around you will dictate which direction you travel in. If you see anything that you’d like to buy, then buy it when you see it. Don’t make the mistake of making a mental note to return, because although every kiosk has an address written above the store, you’ll probably never find it again. You have the usual array of mass-produced goods; tee shirts, shoes, bags, crockery, army surplus, jeans, jewellery, phone accessories, trinkets etc., but you’ll also find stalls selling artistic one-off products that are generally reasonably priced and Thai artefacts that are generally not. The things that pique your interest may be genuine, but this is Thailand, so buyer beware.
As the sun sets, the inner market begins to close down and the younger trendy Thai crowd migrate to the outer triangle at areas 3 through 6 on the map. This area is fashion heaven, but as a Westerner, if you’re anything larger than ’Average’ in size, then you might struggle to find anything suited to your frame. The exodus towards this trendy fashion street is usually my cue to leave the market, but if you’ve bought anything that you’d like to ship back to your home, then there are several outlets, DHL etc., who’ll help you with door-to-door shipping.
Chat u Chak Weekend Market can sometimes feel like a good work-out, but the investment of energy is worth it. It’s an experience that you’ll never forget and all future markets will seem tame by comparison. Well, almost all other markets.
4: Chat u Chak Green Weekend Night Market
Three years ago, this weekend market migrated from Lad Phrao to it’s new location behind Chat u Chak Park. Back then it was Bangkok’s best kept secret and my favourite place in Thailand. However, in the last twelve months things have changed quite dramatically. Young fashionable Thai’s have discovered this place and taken it to their hearts. It is without doubt the coolest market in all of Asia, perhaps the world, and while you’ll probably still be the only Westerner here, you’ll certainly never feel lonely.
To find Chat u Chak Green, come out of Chat u Chak Market, keep the market perimeter to your left and Chat u Chak Park to your right, and just keep walking down the road. The entrance to Chat u Chak Green Market will open up on your left, so just take a deep breath, take your partners hand in a firm grip, wander inside and enjoy the eclectic experience.
The market is divided into two distinctive parts, permanent stores at the rear and pop-up stalls to your right. I always start with the pop-ups, and if I need anything for the SuperCub C90; whitewall tyres, pimped-out 72 spoke rims or a replacement indicator cover, then this is where I‘ll find it. It’s part trendy Auto-Jumble, part Hollywood Memorabilia and part 70’s Kitsch. Everything you never really needed is here; movie props, old advertising signs the size of your house, iconic posters, vinyl records, 1920’s barbers chairs, vintage clothes and giant WWII search lights. If Chat u Chak Green doesn’t have what you were never looking for, then you’re probably walking around with your eyes closed. This is a ’Holy Shit’ kind of market, a place where you actually need nothing but want to buy everything. But, don’t expect to grab yourself the bargain of the century here. Sure, the clothes and trinkets are reasonably priced, but when it comes to genuine collectables, the Thai’s understand not only the price, but also the true value of everything. Chat u Chak Green Market isn’t cheap, but that’s not the reason that you’re going there.
After browsing the pop-ups, follow the sound of music and move towards the rear of the market. Here you’ll find trendy clothes, modern one-offs and genuine vintage, and a wide range of music bars and eateries. This place is more than alive, it’s positively buzzing with energy. And the people here, well, they’re just visually beautiful, it’s as if they‘ve been sprinkled with handsome-dust and released into the night. They must have Beauty Police on the entrance, and I somehow manage to sneak passed them without being noticed. This must be the liveliest open-air venue in Thailand. For Bangkok’s trendy hipsters it’s the place to be seen, and despite that, I absolutely love it. Do yourself a favour, sit down in a converted oil drum chair and listening to the live music. Grab yourself a cold beer and a genuine bowl of Pad Thai, and just watch the world walk by you.
5: Baiyoke Tower II
In the Ratchathewi district of Bangkok, close to Platinum Mall, you’ll find Thailand‘s tallest building. At 1,000 feet tall and with 85 floors, Baiyoke Tower II provides the most amazing viewing platform for Bangkok. It’ll cost 500 Baht to visit the rotating observation deck, but if you enjoy watching sunsets over amazing cityscapes, then this is certainly the place to do it.
Arrive before sunset and remember to bring your camera, and if you have one, a tripod. Spend an hour or two slowly rotating high above Bangkok watching the cityscape transform as darkness descends. There’s a bar and restaurant close to the viewing platform, but there are certainly better roof-top dining venues in the city. No, don’t come here to eat or drink, just come to experience the amazing views. 500 Baht will buy a lot of food and beer in Bangkok, but a viewing experience like this is absolutely priceless.
.... Bangkok is a city of 14 million people, one of the most visited capital cities in the world, it has the richest of cultures and I’ve only mentioned five different attractions. Of course, there’s so much more to see and do here, but I’ve only listed the essentials. Provided you arrive here with an open outlook, then you can’t fail to enjoy yourself and create memories that will stay with you for life.
1: The Grand Palace
Bangkok's Grand Palace
In the Phra Nakhon District of Bangkok, a gentle walk from Khao San Road, you’ll find Bangkok’s most famous landmark: The Grand Palace. It’ll be clearly marked on your map, right at the edge of the Chao Phraya River, and any taxi driver will know how to get you there. However, what most people think of as the Grand Palace, is actually Wat Phra Kaew, or The Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Palace, and the Wat (Temple) are located in the same complex and the entry ticket, 500 Baht for foreigners and Free for Thais, gives access to both areas.
Wat Phra Kaew - Temple of the Emerald Buddha
Despite what the loitering Tuk-Tuk Drivers and Tourist Guides tell you, this complex is never closed to the public. It is open daily, but on normal days the latest time for entry is around 3pm in the afternoon. It is a Temple, so you’ll need to dress appropriately. The general rule is no bare shoulders and legs fully covered down to the ankles. But, if you’ve arrived wearing shorts, don’t worry because just inside the main gates they’ll happily provide you with a sarong, or a pair of long pants, for a reasonable fee. It’s a huge complex with much to see, so allow yourself a few hours to enjoy this place. It will be busy, but take your time to enjoy it. Don’t be afraid to enter the Temple, after removing your shoes of course, and the locals will be happy to guide you in the lighting of candles, the burning of incense sticks and the placement of ceremonial flowers. The entry price includes a small guidebook that will explain the basics of what you need to know about each room and structure, and small information plaques will fill in the blanks. If only have time to visit one site in Bangkok, then this is the one to head for.
2: Wat Saket
Wat Saket - Golden Mount
A fifteen minute walk from The Grand Palace and Khao San Road, Wat Saket is better known to tourists as Golden Mount. Just look upwards and you’ll see a huge hill crowned by a golden chedi, that‘s the top of Golden Mount. The hill isn’t a natural feature, it’s made entirely by man, but the guidebooks will give you all of the history you’ll need. Once again, it’s a temple, so you’ll need to dress appropriately. Grab a bottle of cold water, climb the steps towards the summit, ring the multitude of bells as you go and feel free to chat with any monks that you meet. I love this place, it’s always a lot quieter than Wat Phra Kaew, the views from the summit are stunning and the monks are some of the friendliest that you’ll ever meet. Don’t be afraid of them, they genuinely appreciate your interest and the opportunity to practice their English.
The Summit of Wat Saket
At the base of the golden chedi, the tall round pillar that is said to contain a relic of Lord Buddha, feel free to kneel down and pray. It really doesn’t matter what religion you follow, or if like me you have no religion at all, it’s just something that you’ve probably never done before, but something that might stay with you forever. Many tourists are nervous, but providing you’re respectful of your surroundings, people will be on hand to guide you.
3: Chat u Chak Weekend Market
Entrance to Chat u Chak Weekend Market
If you’re in Bangkok on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, then a trip to Chat u Chak Weekend Market is an absolute must. Chat u Chak is often spelled Jat u JaK, even on the official signs, but that’s just the start of the confusion. This is the worlds largest permanent market and as such, should be highly placed on everyone’s bucket list. A few short years ago, you’d come to Chat u Chak Market and Thai’s would outnumber Westerners 100 to 1, but Chat u Chak is now firmly on the tourist-trail and the numbers have certainly evened out. As a result, the authorities have cleaned the place up, the fake Rolex watches and caged animals have gone and the experience is all the better for it.
To get there, you simply take the BTS to Mo Chit Station and then follow the flow of people across the walkway and down the stairs. It’s hot, it’s crowded and it’s amazingly random, but it’s an experience that no tourist should miss.
Chat u Chak Map
The market is divided into two main sections, the inner and outer triangles on the map. These triangles are separated by an open Walking Street: Kamphaengphet Road. Start by walking left or right, it really doesn’t matter which direction you choose, and just keep on browsing until you return to your original starting point. Along the way you’ll find kiosks selling everything that anybody could ever possibly need, and all at reasonable prices. Along this walking street you’ll also find the food vendors and beer bars. Street food of every variety is cooked to order in front of you and if you need to rest your weary feet before attacking the inner triangle, then grab a stool and a cold beer or soda at any of the busy bars.
The inner triangle is a warren of tight alleys, hot sweaty and crowded. At busy times, which is just about anytime, the masses of people around you will dictate which direction you travel in. If you see anything that you’d like to buy, then buy it when you see it. Don’t make the mistake of making a mental note to return, because although every kiosk has an address written above the store, you’ll probably never find it again. You have the usual array of mass-produced goods; tee shirts, shoes, bags, crockery, army surplus, jeans, jewellery, phone accessories, trinkets etc., but you’ll also find stalls selling artistic one-off products that are generally reasonably priced and Thai artefacts that are generally not. The things that pique your interest may be genuine, but this is Thailand, so buyer beware.
Chat u Chak Outer Triangle
As the sun sets, the inner market begins to close down and the younger trendy Thai crowd migrate to the outer triangle at areas 3 through 6 on the map. This area is fashion heaven, but as a Westerner, if you’re anything larger than ’Average’ in size, then you might struggle to find anything suited to your frame. The exodus towards this trendy fashion street is usually my cue to leave the market, but if you’ve bought anything that you’d like to ship back to your home, then there are several outlets, DHL etc., who’ll help you with door-to-door shipping.
Chat u Chak Weekend Market can sometimes feel like a good work-out, but the investment of energy is worth it. It’s an experience that you’ll never forget and all future markets will seem tame by comparison. Well, almost all other markets.
4: Chat u Chak Green Weekend Night Market
Entrance to Chat u Chak Green Weekend Night Market
Three years ago, this weekend market migrated from Lad Phrao to it’s new location behind Chat u Chak Park. Back then it was Bangkok’s best kept secret and my favourite place in Thailand. However, in the last twelve months things have changed quite dramatically. Young fashionable Thai’s have discovered this place and taken it to their hearts. It is without doubt the coolest market in all of Asia, perhaps the world, and while you’ll probably still be the only Westerner here, you’ll certainly never feel lonely.
To find Chat u Chak Green, come out of Chat u Chak Market, keep the market perimeter to your left and Chat u Chak Park to your right, and just keep walking down the road. The entrance to Chat u Chak Green Market will open up on your left, so just take a deep breath, take your partners hand in a firm grip, wander inside and enjoy the eclectic experience.
The market is divided into two distinctive parts, permanent stores at the rear and pop-up stalls to your right. I always start with the pop-ups, and if I need anything for the SuperCub C90; whitewall tyres, pimped-out 72 spoke rims or a replacement indicator cover, then this is where I‘ll find it. It’s part trendy Auto-Jumble, part Hollywood Memorabilia and part 70’s Kitsch. Everything you never really needed is here; movie props, old advertising signs the size of your house, iconic posters, vinyl records, 1920’s barbers chairs, vintage clothes and giant WWII search lights. If Chat u Chak Green doesn’t have what you were never looking for, then you’re probably walking around with your eyes closed. This is a ’Holy Shit’ kind of market, a place where you actually need nothing but want to buy everything. But, don’t expect to grab yourself the bargain of the century here. Sure, the clothes and trinkets are reasonably priced, but when it comes to genuine collectables, the Thai’s understand not only the price, but also the true value of everything. Chat u Chak Green Market isn’t cheap, but that’s not the reason that you’re going there.
Some of Chat u Chak Green's Eclectic Merchandise
After browsing the pop-ups, follow the sound of music and move towards the rear of the market. Here you’ll find trendy clothes, modern one-offs and genuine vintage, and a wide range of music bars and eateries. This place is more than alive, it’s positively buzzing with energy. And the people here, well, they’re just visually beautiful, it’s as if they‘ve been sprinkled with handsome-dust and released into the night. They must have Beauty Police on the entrance, and I somehow manage to sneak passed them without being noticed. This must be the liveliest open-air venue in Thailand. For Bangkok’s trendy hipsters it’s the place to be seen, and despite that, I absolutely love it. Do yourself a favour, sit down in a converted oil drum chair and listening to the live music. Grab yourself a cold beer and a genuine bowl of Pad Thai, and just watch the world walk by you.
5: Baiyoke Tower II
Bangkok's Baiyoke Towe II
In the Ratchathewi district of Bangkok, close to Platinum Mall, you’ll find Thailand‘s tallest building. At 1,000 feet tall and with 85 floors, Baiyoke Tower II provides the most amazing viewing platform for Bangkok. It’ll cost 500 Baht to visit the rotating observation deck, but if you enjoy watching sunsets over amazing cityscapes, then this is certainly the place to do it.
View from the rotating Observation Platform
.... Bangkok is a city of 14 million people, one of the most visited capital cities in the world, it has the richest of cultures and I’ve only mentioned five different attractions. Of course, there’s so much more to see and do here, but I’ve only listed the essentials. Provided you arrive here with an open outlook, then you can’t fail to enjoy yourself and create memories that will stay with you for life.
Post 403: Part 2: A Beginner’s Guide to Thailand: Getting Around in Bangkok
So, you’ve arrived safely at your accommodation, the room and hotel aren’t quite what you’d seen in the photographs, but let’s face it, you’re only paying £20 a night and have you seen what £100 a night will buy you in London or New York these days?
The first task, is to get a map of Bangkok and find out where you are in relation to what you want to see. Most maps of the city are free, they’ll give them away in reception, but you’ll have to work your way around the array of misleading adverts in order to pick out any of the details. You’re probably staying somewhere around the Silom or Sukhumvit Road areas, or if younger, then maybe even Khao San Road. Wherever you are, you’ll have lots of transport options available.
1: Taxi Bikes
For short trips, less than a mile, hop onto a Taxi Bike and you’ll get there quickly, and usually still in one piece. They’re actually quite safe, crashing is bad for business, but please, ask for the crash helmet and fasten the damned thing properly. Depending on the length of the journey, most trips will cost 20-40 Baht, or outside of the tourist districts, 10-20 Baht. Just look for a group of guys on a street corner wearing matching jackets, they’ll be more than happy to help you.
2: BTS Sky Train
Bangkok has a Sky Train, or ’BTS’ as they call it here. It’s like the Tube in London, except it’s above the ground and it actually works quite well. Check on your map and find a station close to where you want to visit. The BTS is easy to use and all of the announcements and signs rather helpfully employ both Thai and English. Arriving at your nearest station, change your 100 Baht note into 10 Baht coins at the glass window - just look for the queue of people and that’ll be the window you’re looking for. Then at the ticket machine - look for the other queue of people - identify the price for a ticket to your destination, press that number button, insert your coins and the ticket will magically appear. Then, just follow the signs to the platform, jump on the train and listen for the various announcements: ‘Suparni thor pai Ari - Next station Ari‘. If the BTS station is a mile from your final destination, then let a Taxi Bike take you the rest of the way. Or, be brave and walk there. If you get lost, everybody you pass will be willing to help you, in fact, they’ll see it as an honour to assist. The maximum one-way ticket price on BTS is currently, I think, is 50 Baht ($1.50).
Now, if you’re staying around the Khao San Road area, quite possibly the most ’unThai’ street in Thailand, then the second piece of bad news is that you’re miles away from the nearest BTS Station. However, you’re fairly close the Chao Phraya River. The river cuts through Bangkok and is dotted with ferry stations. To get to the nearest BTS station, just jump on a big ferry, 5 Baht, and jump off at Saphan Thaksin. From there, it’s about 100 yards to the BTS Station, appropriately named, Saphan Thaksin.
3: Meter Taxis
All around Bangkok you’ll see brightly coloured Toyota Corollas; pink, yellow, green etc. These taxis are very reasonably priced. However, make sure the driver uses the meter and understands exactly where you want to go. If a driver refuses to turn on the meter, then make sure that you agree a firm and fixed price before setting off. Taxi drivers will generally know the major destinations and landmarks but they’ll often struggle with small hotels and private addresses in distant districts. Unlike in London, taxi drivers here in Bangkok don’t study the ’knowledge’. So, if you’re going out drinking for the night, and you’re staying in an obscure place, then it’s advisable to carry a card from your hotel or guest house with you. Just hand it to the taxi driver and they’ll get you home safely.
4: River & Canal Boats
I mentioned the big Ferry Boats plying their trade on the Chao Phraya River, but Bangkok also has a million smaller canals, called ‘klongs’. Navigating the main river is relatively easy, and although journeys are slow, they’re cheap and show you parts of the city that you‘ll never see from the streets. On the klongs however, navigation is more difficult and even now, I tend to get horribly lost, usually by jumping on a boat that’s heading in the wrong direction. But, to be honest, getting lost in Bangkok is fun and at these prices, not too expensive.
5: Tuk Tuks
Tuk-Tuk’s, where to begin? I understand, you’re in Bangkok for the first time and the image of a tuk-tuk is so iconic that you simply have to ride in one. Actually, they are fun, but be warned, every tuk-tuk driver who’s willing to carry you anywhere is also looking for a payday. Flag one down, or find one at the side of the street, give the driver your destination and set a firm price. Whatever happens, don’t allow the driver to make a detour to a Gem Store, his brother’s Tailors Shop or any other place that you really don’t want to visit. The price you pay will be more than the price of a taxi, but provided the driver goes only where you’ve initially asked him to take you, the journey will also be more memorable.
6: Local Buses
I’m assuming that you won’t be trying to drive yourself around Bangkok in a rental car, but if you are, then good luck with that, it ain’t easy. That leaves three other major forms of transport in the city; Baht Buses, Public Buses and Mini Vans. Baht Buses, or Songthaew, are little more than Isuzu pick-up trucks with benches in the back and a canopy above. You’ll probably never see them in the heart of Bangkok, and if you do you’ll have absolutely no idea where they’re going to take you. So for all but the most adventuous of tourists, they‘re probably best avoided. Public Buses, these are the Flintstonesque charabancs with loose wheels, open windows and belching black smoke form their exhausts. They’re cheap, and you'll see them in central areas of the city, but unless you can read and speak Thai, then you‘ll never know where the hell you‘re going.
That just leaves the Mini Van, the silver or white 15-seat Toyota’s that fly along the road at twice the speed of sound. They’re cheap, and if you know where you’re going then they’re amazingly practical, but, they’re also ever so slightly dangerous. Thai’s use Mini Vans all the time, for both long and short journeys, but most Thai’s are Buddhist and have several future lives to look forward to. You on the other hand, probably only have this one life to enjoy. So, enjoy you’re time in Bangkok and please, avoid the Mini Van.
The first task, is to get a map of Bangkok and find out where you are in relation to what you want to see. Most maps of the city are free, they’ll give them away in reception, but you’ll have to work your way around the array of misleading adverts in order to pick out any of the details. You’re probably staying somewhere around the Silom or Sukhumvit Road areas, or if younger, then maybe even Khao San Road. Wherever you are, you’ll have lots of transport options available.
1: Taxi Bikes
For short trips, less than a mile, hop onto a Taxi Bike and you’ll get there quickly, and usually still in one piece. They’re actually quite safe, crashing is bad for business, but please, ask for the crash helmet and fasten the damned thing properly. Depending on the length of the journey, most trips will cost 20-40 Baht, or outside of the tourist districts, 10-20 Baht. Just look for a group of guys on a street corner wearing matching jackets, they’ll be more than happy to help you.
2: BTS Sky Train
Bangkok has a Sky Train, or ’BTS’ as they call it here. It’s like the Tube in London, except it’s above the ground and it actually works quite well. Check on your map and find a station close to where you want to visit. The BTS is easy to use and all of the announcements and signs rather helpfully employ both Thai and English. Arriving at your nearest station, change your 100 Baht note into 10 Baht coins at the glass window - just look for the queue of people and that’ll be the window you’re looking for. Then at the ticket machine - look for the other queue of people - identify the price for a ticket to your destination, press that number button, insert your coins and the ticket will magically appear. Then, just follow the signs to the platform, jump on the train and listen for the various announcements: ‘Suparni thor pai Ari - Next station Ari‘. If the BTS station is a mile from your final destination, then let a Taxi Bike take you the rest of the way. Or, be brave and walk there. If you get lost, everybody you pass will be willing to help you, in fact, they’ll see it as an honour to assist. The maximum one-way ticket price on BTS is currently, I think, is 50 Baht ($1.50).
Now, if you’re staying around the Khao San Road area, quite possibly the most ’unThai’ street in Thailand, then the second piece of bad news is that you’re miles away from the nearest BTS Station. However, you’re fairly close the Chao Phraya River. The river cuts through Bangkok and is dotted with ferry stations. To get to the nearest BTS station, just jump on a big ferry, 5 Baht, and jump off at Saphan Thaksin. From there, it’s about 100 yards to the BTS Station, appropriately named, Saphan Thaksin.
All around Bangkok you’ll see brightly coloured Toyota Corollas; pink, yellow, green etc. These taxis are very reasonably priced. However, make sure the driver uses the meter and understands exactly where you want to go. If a driver refuses to turn on the meter, then make sure that you agree a firm and fixed price before setting off. Taxi drivers will generally know the major destinations and landmarks but they’ll often struggle with small hotels and private addresses in distant districts. Unlike in London, taxi drivers here in Bangkok don’t study the ’knowledge’. So, if you’re going out drinking for the night, and you’re staying in an obscure place, then it’s advisable to carry a card from your hotel or guest house with you. Just hand it to the taxi driver and they’ll get you home safely.
4: River & Canal Boats
I mentioned the big Ferry Boats plying their trade on the Chao Phraya River, but Bangkok also has a million smaller canals, called ‘klongs’. Navigating the main river is relatively easy, and although journeys are slow, they’re cheap and show you parts of the city that you‘ll never see from the streets. On the klongs however, navigation is more difficult and even now, I tend to get horribly lost, usually by jumping on a boat that’s heading in the wrong direction. But, to be honest, getting lost in Bangkok is fun and at these prices, not too expensive.
5: Tuk Tuks
Tuk-Tuk’s, where to begin? I understand, you’re in Bangkok for the first time and the image of a tuk-tuk is so iconic that you simply have to ride in one. Actually, they are fun, but be warned, every tuk-tuk driver who’s willing to carry you anywhere is also looking for a payday. Flag one down, or find one at the side of the street, give the driver your destination and set a firm price. Whatever happens, don’t allow the driver to make a detour to a Gem Store, his brother’s Tailors Shop or any other place that you really don’t want to visit. The price you pay will be more than the price of a taxi, but provided the driver goes only where you’ve initially asked him to take you, the journey will also be more memorable.
6: Local Buses
I’m assuming that you won’t be trying to drive yourself around Bangkok in a rental car, but if you are, then good luck with that, it ain’t easy. That leaves three other major forms of transport in the city; Baht Buses, Public Buses and Mini Vans. Baht Buses, or Songthaew, are little more than Isuzu pick-up trucks with benches in the back and a canopy above. You’ll probably never see them in the heart of Bangkok, and if you do you’ll have absolutely no idea where they’re going to take you. So for all but the most adventuous of tourists, they‘re probably best avoided. Public Buses, these are the Flintstonesque charabancs with loose wheels, open windows and belching black smoke form their exhausts. They’re cheap, and you'll see them in central areas of the city, but unless you can read and speak Thai, then you‘ll never know where the hell you‘re going.
That just leaves the Mini Van, the silver or white 15-seat Toyota’s that fly along the road at twice the speed of sound. They’re cheap, and if you know where you’re going then they’re amazingly practical, but, they’re also ever so slightly dangerous. Thai’s use Mini Vans all the time, for both long and short journeys, but most Thai’s are Buddhist and have several future lives to look forward to. You on the other hand, probably only have this one life to enjoy. So, enjoy you’re time in Bangkok and please, avoid the Mini Van.
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